What are you guys using on a stock 302 block
Gimme injector size, MAF size and TB size if you don't mind
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What are you guys using on a stock 302 block
Gimme injector size, MAF size and TB size if you don't mind
injector...42#s
Maf...76 mm
TB...65 mm
none of the above.....780 cfm carb, lol
if I do go EFI (really big IF) it would be some kind of standalone system like Holley Pro or MSD or FAST
Iron GT-40's untouched save for a resurface and a valve job
Stock '85-'88 roller cam
'96-'97.5 Ford Explorer upper/lower
19lb. 4 hole F0TE Bosch
70mm '94/'95 OEM SN-95
67mm '96-97.5 OEM Ford Explorer
Iron windsor jrs fully worked
TFS track heat ported wafer thin
custom grind cam
80mm maf
75mm tb
24lb injectors
Actually on a 306 (stock 5.0 block)
1. AFR 165 aluminium heads - stud mount
2. FRPP E-303 cam
3. Edelbrock Performer 5.0 intake
Injectors: FRPP 42 lb
MAF: SCT 90mm MAF BA-2600
TB: Accufab 75mm throttle body with their 75mm throttle body spacer
Actually not on the 302
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Edelbrock Performer 1.90/1.60 Heads
FRPP 1.60 rockers
FRPP E-303 cam
65mm Throttle Body
75mm Pro M MAF
24 lb Injectors
Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump
High Flow Oil Pump
Powerbond SFI Balancer
http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps41efbd4a.jpg
Won't give any extra ponies installed on the garage floor. Lol
Nice floor by the way.
Hardly a bad choice out there these days Brad.
For a stock short build focus on torque for street / tracks like TMP, smaller valve version with conservative camshaft and induction system will serve you well. Want to wind it hard for Mosport or hot street, step up to the larger valve big camshaft offerings. Key is to figure out your goal / intended use up front.
I know Rick but there are almost too many choices.
My car is not a race car and never will be, stock power is just getting a little old.
My first thought was just to find some gt40x heads and a cobra intake and call it a day but looking at all the alternatives makes my head spin
I just want to make it less slow lol
I need to keep up with your garage floor now
Great, make that terrific head in their day but time has passed em by. Look at TFS combo, Edelbrock or AFR, larger bang for the dollars spent. TFS street (emission legal) set up takes a bunch of the guess work out. No downside to building your own package around one of the other main players either. Richards AFR combo with letter cam made impressive numbers on the engine dyno with only a dual plane intake and tiny holley. Is a monster with terrfic street manners in it's current HCI + blower combo, even with an auto trans.
Decide on your budget and intend goals n git er done.
End goal is to have aluminum heads, stock driveability, and be reliable.
More power is good (obviously) but the actual HP number is not a concern
Swapped out stockish 302 to a J+P 306 with Edelbrock RPM alu heads in 1995 in my SVO clone, the most memorable thing was the increase in front end bite, then the power increase, especially with long tubes. Needed a real gear - I did 4.10, but now heading back to 3.73 for better street manners and TMP. Depending on your new engine torque curve, you should consider 3.55 or 3.73 to make it all work properly.
http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/.../EngineBay.jpg
http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/...nLineUpjpg.jpg
Altho the 4.10 was killer for autocrossing - 2nd gear locked in and smoke show/Ken Block style drifting was easy, even with only 300 rwhp
Previous owner put in 3.73's so all good there.
Last winter car got MM k member and control arms, turn in is crazy better, can't wait to drop a few more pounds off the front end.
That's what I wanted as well and got it...reliable like when it was stock for the first 17 years of its life, pass e-test, etc....and with a 22 year old untouched AOD tranny to boot. I even drive the car to work some days during the summer and no issues even on those hot humid days sitting on the 427 and Etobicoke roads in rush hour traffic. Of course the brakes had to be updated to deal with all the idiot drivers you see on the roads in rush hour :-)
Ask ZR about my 2 brake swaps in one summer.....
When I'm ready to do mine I will most likely go for the trickflow streetheat package. To me it just makes sense, why fuck around and peice crap together? I may switch out the cam for something with a bit more lumplumplump.
So.. How much cheaper is an off the shelf cam compared to a custom grind? By the time my heads and intake were ported, assembled and what not, I must have been $3500 deep at least...the $400 for a custom cam seemed a nominal amount? Why would you not want to go custom cam?
just trow an E in there...youll be fine...
Stock block, 175,000km
70mm Accufab Throttle body
75mm Pro-M Racing Mass Air
19# 4 pintle bosch injectors
GT40 intake
Edelbrock Performer heads, 1.90 I, 1.6E
Ford E cam
Last thing I need/want Brad, is for you to be faster. Personally I like your car just fine with stock power.
On that note, you might want to add some ballast behind the front bumper.
i would go holley intake, tfs heads and a mild cam.
Engine in stock location, or set back? Reverse Fox control arms, so stock wheelbase and track width, correct? So just by changing the K member and arms you gained:
turn in
cornering grip
straight line tracking
wider range of alignment settings?
Inquiring mind needs to know..... lol
Did you watch it out on the track Paul? You'd swear it's glued to the track, on rails best explains it.
MM stuff on the front of mine, gained all of the above and then some.
This whole thread is Rick and Rob's faults for taking me for rides around the track in there cars and feeling how fast I could go with more power
Paul - engine in stock position and arms for stock track width and wheel base. Feel huge turn in difference and little more cornering grip. Alignment settings basically the same since stock track width and wheel base. Whole car feels stiffer.
How did I get involved again?? LOL
Brad, bitch picked up a bunch of sqeeze at the fall dyno tune.
Awesome, I'll reserve my spot in the passenger seat now for the spring tack day
My short block is stock. I have trick flow heads, roller rockers, E303 cam, trick flow R intake, 75mm accufab TB and fuel pressure reg, with anderson N/A pipe cold air pipe with 80mm Pro-M meter and 24b injectors.
I really like this set up. The car rev's really well and lots of top end power. I wanted my power up in the rpm range and this intake flows great for that. I would totally recommend it for your type of driving Brad
Edelbrock performer rpm heads 2.02/1.60
B cam with 1.7 rockers
PSP ported cobra intake
acufab 75mm tb
pmas 95 mm meter
42lbs injectors.
if i where to build another pushrod motor it would be
331 block
performer rpm 1.90/1.60
custom or anderson cam with spec'd ratio rockers
holley system max intake if n/a
or a kenne bell if boosted
As much as I would like to do something different, it looks like the trick flow top end kits are the best price.
Totally off topic but it did come up in the thread...are the MM front lower control arms much lighter than stock?
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te...ntrol_arm.aspxQuote:
Once a Mustang has been converted to front coil-overs, there is no need for a front control arm designed to hold the spring, and therefore the weight of the car, in the center of its span. When the spring is no longer located on the control arm, the design requirements for the arm change, allowing for a much lighter weight control arm.
Stock Ford arms weigh 14-3/4 lbs. each. MM tubular arms weigh 8 pounds each, for a total weight savings of 13-1/2 lb from the control arms alone. Additional weight is saved from the installation of the front coil-over kit.
Almost 1/2 the weight of stock.