Nissan Frontier

[RedSN]

Thought I'd post a new thread for this since there has been a few inquiries.

A few weeks ago I finalized a deal on a new 2016 Nissan Frontier SV, and I picked it up last Thursday. With Ford killing the Ranger, and the other manufacturers also dropping their small pickups, or making them bigger, I pulled the trigger on a new Frontier before they remodel (make it bigger) next year or the following year.

It's a 4.0L aluminum V6, 4x4, extended cab, 6' box. ....and it fits in my garage.

First impressions are it's a great little truck. I really really love the rear view camera and the self-dimming rear view mirror. It's only a couple of inches taller and wider than the Ranger was, and about 7" longer. It rides super smooth and has plenty of power coupled with a 6-speed auto. It also has a towing capacity and GVW that will allow me to tow a car trailer. Even with the bigger engine and 4x4, the rated mileage is about the same as my old B3000 (3.0L 2WD), and the insurance is cheaper! I'll be watching the mileage during the next couple of months.


Tow package
Factory applied bed liner
Bed extender
Adjustable cargo cleats
Rear view camera
Heated seats and side mirrors


https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-k7gBr47/0/77d3409d/M/image_zpswbwg7ivk-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-3Jd6xLj/0/86b48c3e/M/image_zps6qkqntag-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-Q8nWbVN/0/1a48149a/M/image_zpsxv6zw2us-M.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-d6z6HSD/0/83918213/M/image_zpsxvklkwaq-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-XjCKr2L/0/8c125e88/M/image_zpsppx1x0ia-M.jpg

It was actually really difficult to find this vehicle. Few of the Nissan dealerships have the Frontier in stock, and fewer still had the extended cab. This truck has become the new standard for companies that used the Ranger as a fleet vehicle. I'm sorry, but Ford (and GM and Dodge) really dropped the ball when they discontinued the small trucks. They claim that there is no market for this style of vehicle, but I disagree. Between the "chicken tax" and the EPA, it's an uphill battle.

[Old Fart]

Really nice truck...congrats!...but the rear mud flaps are on wrong, lol!!

[RedSN]

Yeah, I know. I need to get some Yosemite Sam "back-off" flaps for the rear.

[TheMustangShow]

Congrats!
Was sure you'd drive your Ranger forever...LOL

Thought those came with a 6 speed stick or a 5 spd Auto and what is the towing cap? I'm amazed that can pull a Car Trailer.

[ZR]

Looks terrific, enjoy.

[Stephen06GT]

Nice looking rig. Congrats!

[CON VERT]

:fb:

[WTF]

looks like a nice little truck...congrats

as a former Ranger owner.....it's pretty disappointing to see them stop making it

little trucks are great for those that don't need or want a big rig but need the versatility of a pick up

[RedSN]

Congrats!
Was sure you'd drive your Ranger forever...LOL

Thought those came with a 6 speed stick or a 5 spd Auto and what is the towing cap? I'm amazed that can pull a Car Trailer.

Correct, that should have read 5-speed auto. The Pro-4X comes with a 6-speed manual box.

Payload capacity: 1368 lbs
Towing capacity: 6300 lbs

I probably would have kept the B3000 forever, but I had to figure how much life was left in it? Problem was going to be there wasn't going to be any small trucks anymore by then.

http://www.nissanusa.com/content/dam/nissan/vehicles/trucks/frontier/2016/overview/sub-features/2016-nissan-frontier-truck-towing.jpg
*from the Frontier brochure

[jibbijib]

Nice score Jon! Looks pretty sleak and comfy. Now you just need a car trailer lol

[tulowd]

Congrats Don; now you have to get rid of the red Jelly Bean and get a 240Z with trailer like in the brochure. ;)

[Scrape]

Nice Truck there Don! Congrats. And back to that garage...WOW!

[Biz]

Nice truck Don!

[RAT ATK]

Nice ride Don. I was seriously considering one of those a few years back.

[MUSTANGWOP]

Nice truck Don, congrats.

[Screw]

Way to go , pulled out a few lbs from under the mattress eh , good reviews from peeps I know with those trucks

[RedSN]

...good reviews from peeps I know with those trucks
I hope so. Since I didn't know much about Nissan I did a lot of research and reading reviews. The VQ40 engine is a bored and stroked version of the 3.5L V6 found in the G35 and 350Z, ...and pretty much everything else Nissan sells. Made in good ol' Tennessee (both the truck and the engine).

Only major issue with the Frontier seemed to be the transmission cooler line breaking inside the radiator and flooding the transmission with coolant. The newer ones have an independent external transmission oil cooler. In the last pic posted, you can see the giant oil cooler behind the license plate. Yeah, that's the oil cooler, not the radiator!

[Hckynut]

My brother has the quad cab version as his company vehicle. Nice truck, but very thristy!

[Ghost Rider]

Sweet Don! Congrats again on the new Truck!! :)

[True Blue]

Congrats Don on the new wheels.

[twister]

i like it don ..

[svo1990mustang]

Looks great Don, still a shame Ford axed the Ranger

[RedSN]

5k update: getting used to the truck, still really like it. Used the heated seats a couple of times, real nice. Loving the backup camera. No recalls, no issues. Solid little truck so far.

Finally got my tonneau cover (only took 12 weeks :mad: )
I got the Bakflip VP. Install was pretty easy, only one minor issue where I had to enlarge a hole (nothing a dremmel couldn't handle). Love the flush look. It folds up all the way up against the back window to allow full bed access.

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-9pprmTr/0/bf046daa/M/IMG_0037_zpsxz2gmral-M.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-DqdZMBx/0/db6ca3d6/M/IMG_0038_zpsbfy5tq3p-M.jpg

[ZR]

Looks terrific on there Don.

[Screw]

Bakflip is a quality product looks great man
A little more refined than my G2 , which I've been happy with , I like the one piece look of the VP . The sun will help shape out any little wrinkles in the rubber trim from shipping .

[Redfire427]

That backflip will be in the garbage in a few years. Ask me how I know. The hinged areas of the fabric get destroyed in no time. Not mention, the metal on the underside is beer-can thin. If anything inpacts it, it will bend or pierce. Very dissappointed in this product after 4 years.

Carmen

[Screw]

^^wow no shiat , I've had my g2 Bakflip for years no issues , but I don't have the vinyl cover on it .

[throttleX]

Apology for posting on this old thread. I'm been searching for a tonneau cover (http://4wheelonline.com/tonneau-covers.222468), I need one that last better along with good warranty just in case. Heard good comments about BAK and Extang. Retractable seems a good choice but are expensive so tri-fold will do. A close friend recently got Truxedo, seems a good one but too early to say the quality these coming years. TIA for any recommendation based on what you got.

[ZR]

Current folding soft on Sierra is an Extang. At 9 years old, cover is just starting to deteriorate a little, consider that good service especially since I often fold it in the cold weather. Similar experience with Extang covers on my last three pick ups.

[RedSN]

I've only had the Bakflip VP for 4 months now, but so far so good. Very versatile, and looks great IMO. Only complaints so far: a couple of times the rear weather strip has frozen to the tailgate, and the pull-cord latch realeases are sometimes difficult to grab a hold of.

My last tonneau cover was the Undercover. That thing was indestructible! Totally recommend it for a one-piece.
http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/LX-Markham/tonneau-01.jpg

[throttleX]

Thank you for the tips. I'll let the wifey decide which one to get since she will use it.

[Darkhorse]

Nice truck, I missed this thread before.

[RedSN]

New summer wheels on the truck!

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-wkBsX5C/0/6cf807a1/M/IMG_0076_zpsmbshdykk-M.jpg
Just barely cleared the front calipers.
And the holes are just barely big enough to get a skinny socket in.
Got so excited I forgot about pressure sensors.

[Armen]

Mods for the daily driver, eh? :)

[Stephen06GT]

Looks good Don.

[Ponyryd]

Mods for the daily driver, eh? :)

So it begins.......

[RedSN]

Mods for the daily driver, eh? :)
Knew that was coming. ;)
Winter tires ended up on the OEM wheels. These rims are for the summers.

[Armen]

Oh, Don... welcome to the world of 'justification'.

[RedSN]

Yeah, yeah. I'm just glad Maximum Motorsports doesn't make parts for it. Then I would be in trouble.

Just for full disclosure: I modified the antenna with a shorter one so it wouldn't hit the lift. And a nicer exhaust tip might 'fall' onto the truck.

[Armen]

Soon you'll be selling the car too!

[jibbijib]

I'm not worried about Don going mod crazy on the truck... Given how fast he puts parts on the Mustang.

[Darkhorse]

tint the windows.

[RedSN]

2018 update:

Truck still running strong. Only issue to date has been one rear shock that leaked and needed replacing.
Tonneau cover still looks like new.
Hauled some stuff up to the cottage this weekend and got 8.5 km/L highway. (11.7 km/100L, 20 mpg)



*mods could move this thread to the new truck forum

[jibbijib]

We should have a truck meet.

[RedSN]

^^^we do.
Every second Tuesday in Aurora, LOL.
A couple of people sometimes bring Mustangs tho.

[RedSN]

That backflip will be in the garbage in a few years. Ask me how I know. The hinged areas of the fabric get destroyed in no time. Not mention, the metal on the underside is beer-can thin. If anything inpacts it, it will bend or pierce.
So, 3 years later, still looks and works great! A couple of odd colour patches, and a bit of rust on one of the latches, but I’m still VERY satisfied with this tonneau cover. Definitely NOT garbage.

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-Ds9dbFS/0/3c231c68/L/42023B18-4DB7-4BF9-94C2-1FAC5E4B5CF9-L.jpg

Truck update: still running strong. No recalls, no issues, just regular fluid changes. Mileage still sucks tho for a small-ish truck. Mixed driving 8 km/L

[Screw]

For a minute I was gonna say wtf u complaining about 8L/100 ...then I re-read it lol 8km/L

[RedSN]

L/100km is the dumbest unit of measure ever, I refuse to use it, LOL.
km/L, or MPG.

[Ponyryd]

Are you saying that km/L is better than L/100km? I’d like to hear your reasoning on that plz ;)

[Screw]

L/100km is the dumbest unit of measure ever, I refuse to use it, LOL.
km/L, or MPG.

Dang engineers

[Scrape]

I agree with Don. It is a direct translation from miles per gallon. Why the heck would I want to know him many liters I used after traveling 100 km? :facepalm:
Are you saying that km/L is better than L/100km? I’d like to hear your reasoning on that plz ;)

[Ponyryd]

I agree with Don. It is a direct translation from miles per gallon. Why the heck would I want to know him many liters I used after traveling 100 km? :facepalm:

Because I’m used to it, lol.

[Foxstang]

Decimeters per liter

[RedSN]

Are you saying that km/L is better than L/100km? I’d like to hear your reasoning on that plz ;)
Yes, that’s exactly what I’m saying. As Scrape said, direct unit conversion of miles per gallon would be kilometres per litre. The bigger the number the better, right? Like horsepower. It’s not golf, we don’t want a low score.

[ZR]

Not really all that bad for all around driving but yes you'd have though lil trucks would get better mileage.

[Foxstang]

I get about 8.5kpl as well in city driving with the 2.3 turbo ranger

[Uncle Buck]

For combined driving with plenty of short distance runs I don't think that's bad mileage, sorry, kilometreage. (Is that a word?)

It's smallish not small and 4x4.

[RedSN]

LOL

https://cdn.lowgif.com/small/d7ebc9f61391fc28-landing-gear-failure-plane-saved-by-truck-gif-finder-find-and.gif

[5.4MarkVIII]

That looks like one of those situations where if it works your a hero but if it fails they throw the book at you.

[RedSN]

Pushed over the 100,000 km barrier recently. So I’m out of warranty.

Intermittent issue has just cropped up: Occasionally turn the key and it just clicks. Starter won’t turn over. Ruled out the battery and the security system. Still have to check the cables. Eventually it turns over after several tries (key off/on). When it does crank it sounds healthy. Has happened 3 times now in as many months.

Question, if it needs a new starter: new or remanufactured?

[Zippy]

Most 'new' starters are just remanufactured anyways.

[Scrape]

Just curious as to why not the battery?

[5.4MarkVIII]

bad battery would still usualy at least try to crank, unless it dead, dead, but then you would not have lights, as well. if lights re bright and it just clicks with no dimming, I would be looking at starter or connections.

[Gabe]

Starter solenoid integral to the starter on your truck?

[RedSN]

Yes, solenoid is integral with the starter.

Battery is new.

Once the “no-start” condition clears itself, the truck will start normally for a couple of weeks. When I say “intermittent problem” I really mean intermittent.

[Gabe]

I have had similar issues with my fox and found there was a ignition switch recall, perhaps something similar

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-11572A/79-93-Mustang-Ignition-Switch

[Scrape]

Gabe is right on the money. I was about to say the switch as well.

[RedSN]

"Roger your plan to go EVA and replace Alpha-Echo three-five unit prior to failure."
Guess I know what I’m doing this weekend.

New starter showed up at my doorstep this morning.
https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-5qhCpPF/0/3529c3b9/M/E5040909-11AD-4CC8-81BE-B2D8C2586BA1-M.jpg

It came with a dyno sheet!
https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-PTS8Wk2/0/7e9ded5f/M/A5577A9A-040B-482E-B5EE-8047224FAA94-M.jpg

[5.4MarkVIII]

Hope it goes better than my starter job.

Delivery guy took the cube van to the scrap yard. And it stalled as he was getting back. Wouldn’t start again.

Looks like he hit something in the yard. Smashed the starter and bent the starter bolts.

Been waiting for almost a month for replacement bolts.

[ZR]

GM starter bolts, common for them to bend / shear off in the block or break the block itself if not correctly tightened or if bolts are too long and have bottomed out.

[5.4MarkVIII]

GM starter bolts, common for them to bend / shear off in the block or break the block itself if not correctly tightened or if bolts are too long and have bottomed out.

And apparently rare as hens teeth right now.

Think I could make do with just a couple grade 8 bolts of the right length or am I just asking for problems going that route.

[ZR]

No reason why not but careful attention to correct length is important. If block is anything but perfect and starter can load directly from below (sometimes means pulled converter shield off) pair of grade 8 studs gently bottomed in the holes works well.

[5.4MarkVIII]

Thanks. At least then it’s movable until the proper ones come in.

[ZR]

In my eyes, grade 8 bolts the correct length are a permanent fix.

[Gabe]

Agree with Rick, grade 8/ 10.9 is a permanent solution. There is 12.9 available, but grade 8 is top dog in imperial hardware

[RedSN]

Well that was about as much fun as I thought it was going to be.

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-dkjDmPh/0/813f92a4/M/C04D9491-6091-41F2-98C7-EDEC4E10CA09-M.jpg

Manual says to remove the 2 bolts on the heat shield. The next instruction should be “bend it the fuck out of the way”. Got the starter out using some kind of contortionism. But could not get the new one back in until I rage bent the shield way back.

New starter cranks like mad!

[5.4MarkVIII]

Nice it’s fixed. Surprised the heat shield bolts came out. If I was doing it every one would have snapped off

If I remember correctly the olds aroura had the starter in the valley between the heads. Had to pull the intake. GIANT PITA.

[1BAD92LX]

^^^yep, the caddy northstar v8, done a few of them.
It’s funny you don’t know how bad the old starter is until you hear the new one spin over 4 times as fast.
Replaced the starter on my car this summer. Had 1994 stamped on it. It was due.

[RedSN]

It’s funny you don’t know how bad the old starter is until you hear the new one spin over 4 times as fast.
Yep. Same with new battery and new brakes.

Wow, 1994, that starter didn’t owe you anything.

[RedSN]

Intermittent issue has just cropped up: Occasionally turn the key and it just clicks. Starter won’t turn over. Ruled out the battery and the security system. Still have to check the cables. Eventually it turns over after several tries (key off/on). When it does crank it sounds healthy. Has happened 3 times now in as many months.


Once the “no-start” condition clears itself, the truck will start normally for a couple of weeks. When I say “intermittent problem” I really mean intermittent.
Well, that lasted 2 years. The exact same problem occurred this morning. Moved the truck out of the garage, then 10 minutes later I went to go put it back in and “click”. Nothing. A few minutes later, it cranked over and started no problem. Pretending like nothing had ever happened.

:mad:

[Old Fart]

Any OBD codes?

[5.4MarkVIII]

Well, that lasted 2 years. The exact same problem occurred this morning. Moved the truck out of the garage, then 10 minutes later I went to go put it back in and “click”. Nothing. A few minutes later, it cranked over and started no problem. Pretending like nothing had ever happened.

:mad:

Batterie connections tight?

That’s be being optimistic. Lol.

[Snaketamer]

Had an intermittent no start on my 09 Santa Fe. I took it in for service and they replaced the immobilizer antenna coil. Not sure if your Nissan has one...

[RedSN]

No CEL, but will hook it up and check for codes.
Will also check the cables.
It being intermittent is the confusing part.

Going to research wtf a “immobilizer antenna coil” is.

Ordered a new Bosch starter just in case. (didn’t realize the remanufactured one was a Mitsubishi. F*ing hate Mitsubishi)

[True Blue]

Have a look and/or post your problem on the Frontier forum. https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/yet-another-intermittent-starting-issue.374121/
I would suspect either a sensor issue or wiring. Check your cables, fuses, relays and connections including the ground points.

[bluetoy]

Good engine ground?

[ZR]

+1 on chase engine ground to where it bolts to the block.

[92redragtop]

No CEL, but will hook it up and check for codes.
Will also check the cables.
It being intermittent is the confusing part.

Going to research wtf a “immobilizer antenna coil” is.

Ordered a new Bosch starter just in case. (didn’t realize the remanufactured one was a Mitsubishi. F*ing hate Mitsubishi)

I had a similar part replaced on my Volvo several years back. Couple things were happening where the system thought the alarm was triggered and causing a no-start/immobilization (no audible alarm though but notification light had faster blink rate to warn) and arming/disarming was able to reset it. IIRC it had a random no start issue but was able to keep trying and get it started (I think I was trying the arm/disarm button too).

[bluetoy]

My thinking is that there is a click when you turn the key, It's not the security system or anything complicated. It's trying to run the starter. It's a bad connection, ground or a bad starter/solenoid. Try the simple things first.

[RedSN]

My thinking is that there is a click when you turn the key, It's not the security system or anything complicated. It's trying to run the starter. It's a bad connection, ground or a bad starter/solenoid. Try the simple things first.
I’ve got all week to try and figure it out. But my gut feeling is starter solenoid, so new starter is on order. If it’s something else, then I’ll have a spare starter on the shelf.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far. I’ve got a good checklist now

[RedSN]

Had a garage check the battery, they said it was okay.
Checked the ground cable. It was the cleanest I’ve seen in any vehicle.
Checked the power cable. Some battery acid corrosion. Cleaned it up, went for a run.

When I got back, I hooked up my code scanner and ran a battery and alternator check:

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-wf67jD6/0/86259e1a/S/E21E0ECB-8AEA-4CC6-B816-F9C553FEE037-S.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-QKBfWrW/0/f7620dab/S/BC183A97-6407-4988-9332-478A25463E06-S.jpg

Possibly needs a new battery?


mods: this thread could probably be best moved to the truck section. thanks

[bluetoy]

Did you check to make sure the engine was properly grounded.

[RedSN]

The ground cable from the battery -ve to the block? Yes. Squeaky clean. Cleaned it anyway.

Started up several times today. Sounded healthy each time.

[Uncle Buck]

Sorry if I missed it but how old is the battery?

[5.4MarkVIII]

Had a garage check the battery, they said it was okay.
Checked the ground cable. It was the cleanest I’ve seen in any vehicle.
Checked the power cable. Some battery acid corrosion. Cleaned it up, went for a run.

When I got back, I hooked up my code scanner and ran a battery and alternator check:

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-wf67jD6/0/86259e1a/S/E21E0ECB-8AEA-4CC6-B816-F9C553FEE037-S.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-QKBfWrW/0/f7620dab/S/BC183A97-6407-4988-9332-478A25463E06-S.jpg

Possibly needs a new battery?


mods: this thread could probably be best moved to the truck section. thanks

assuming a garage would have done a proper load test but your test dropping out to 6.7 seems low.

not to beat a dead horse but i had an old car that the ground cable looked fine but chased many many start issues to finally replace the ground and it was all corroded internally. ends looked mint but was garbage under the sheath.

might be worth to just add a jumper cable from the batterie ground to a clean spot on the motor and then run your test again and see if that drop out changes

if it doesn't id say bad batterie.

[RedSN]

I’m assuming I can test the ground cable by probing each end and reading the ohms?


Sorry if I missed it but how old is the battery?
2-3 years old.
Interstate.

[5.4MarkVIII]

usualy yes. but an ohm meter is using a very low voltage. its possible if its a corrosion issue or a broken wire, vibration or movement may cause an intermittent issue, but also the current load the wire is taking during start demand is far greater. could be causing heat build up in a very short period of time, heat causes expansion and contraction.

[5.4MarkVIII]

2-3 years old.
Interstate.

for under 100 bucks you can pick up a hydrometer and a basic load tester. all you need for testing a battery and very handy to have in the tool box.

[Uncle Buck]

I wonder if the new starter you put in a couple of years ago is no bueno.

Seems odd the same issue was fixed with a new starter and now it’s back. Aftermarket parts…….

[RedSN]

That backflip will be in the garbage in a few years. Ask me how I know. The hinged areas of the fabric get destroyed in no time. Not mention, the metal on the underside is beer-can thin. If anything inpacts it, it will bend or pierce. Very dissappointed in this product after 4 years.

Carmen

Sooooooo….. the Bakflip finally gave up the ghost. Lasted 7 years. As predicted, the fabric along the folds cracked split open and let water in. Wasn’t much longer before the core rotted and soft. The latches were also becoming problematic. With some pro-active maintenance, probably could have stretched it out a couple more years.

Too bad because I really liked the Bakflip. The versatility was amazing, loved the look, but for the price the durability was disappointing.

Got a replacement from Costco for under $400. It’s a tri-fold, aluminum frame, vinyl top. Not as versatile, but easily removed if I need the entire bed, and way lighter. Had to remove the cleat rails because the new tonneau came with the wrong hardware to work with the rails. Planning on emailing TonnoPro to see if I can get the right pieces.

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-wvh8DXX/0/bb613ced/L/IMG_2596-L.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-CLSjS2C/0/c0141582/L/IMG_2597-L.jpg

[RedSN]

Thought I would update this thread, and link my truck audio thread.
https://www.torontomustangclub.ca/forums/showthread.php?16250-Car-Audio-and-Subs&highlight=
I don’t think I ever posted a pic of the finished sub. I was reminded of this thread this weekend, as I passed 170k on the truck. We were on our way to the cottage and my wife had her playlist on. Some of her audio selections have more bass than mine, and I was thinking “damn! That sounds great!”.

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-WWX2dcQ/0/0f1cfdb9/X2/56C489BC-8443-4CFB-9A64-7BD2CF791E69-X2.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-WpNqqnv/0/a3409a82/M/25D5D65E-1A3D-4449-B4FB-9DC1F50AE630-M.jpg

[RedSN]

Got a P0128 code on the truck couple weeks ago. “engine coolant temperature is below the thermostat regulating temperature”.
Apparently common on these trucks for the t-stat to fail open.
Got a new t-stat, took everything apart, only to find that I got the wrong part.

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-XLwHRcJ/0/KmVdfsLQDDFLjhtHsDJKrh5kCbmR897CLKtNfZ6dC/L/IMG_3060-L.jpg
Never seen one like this, but the t-stat is integral to the whole housing!

Put everything back together and ordered a new t-stat w/ housing.
Also new to me: blue antifreeze?

[Old Fart]

Wow...weird but at least you can't install the thermostat backwards!

[Uncle Buck]

But why they do that?

[fast Ed]

Seen that with some of the Fords in the last 10-15 years as well, sold as a whole unit.

[hammerhead]

The caravan was the same

[RedSN]

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-rR8xQ7c/0/MDWMGg5KsSHwgRfG6nc6QQtZ9BBpmM726Btg7Fxjk/M/IMG_3061-M.jpg

Didn’t get a chance to touch the truck until today. Was easy considering I had already disassembled and reassembled it a couple of weeks ago. Got the right thermostat and also took the opportunity to replaced the temperature gauge at the back against the firewall.

Initial test drive seemed to be a success. No leaks, heat works, temp is coming up to normal. We’ll see if the CEL comes back.

[Blackmare]

Great job Don.

[RedSN]

Well, temp is coming up now, so no P0128 code ….but then it keeps on going! Runs fine for a good while, but then around 15 minutes later it starts getting hot! Hotter than it’s ever run. Hot enough that there’s a secondary electric fan that I’ve never heard kick in before, LOL.

I’ve searched the internets, and two possible culprits are: air in the system, and bad aftermarket t-stat. I don’t think I have air in the system, so bad t-stat? :mad:
It’s a Motorad which I’ve had good success with before. Guess I’m calling up Nissan and doing this t-stat job a third time.

[hammerhead]

That sucks —maybe stuck open.

[RedSN]

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-GgV7wDw/0/KLNPFdSRrJ7sbW8xWkkdXR5ncHSVHKDcHL43qdSm4/L/IMG_3067-L.jpg
OEM Nissan (Aisin) on the left, aftermarket MotoRad on the right.

Small differences, but the most obvious is the baffle on the side of the OEM. I’m not sure what it does, but it’s clearly more complicated than any t-stat I’ve ever seen. The thermostat housing is fed by the lower rad hose and flows into the “water inlet” where there seems to be a complicated system of channels and pipes that feed the water pump among many other things. So that baffle is directing coolant to somewhere it needs to go that the aftermarket t-stat does not.

Baffling (no pun intended) was that with the MotoRad the truck behaved like it had a bad clutch fan. It would stay normal on the highway, but oddly the A/C electric fan would kick in. In the city with prolonged stops at lights idling, the temp would start creeping up.

So far, after a test drive to the beer store, the temp is sitting rock steady, and the A/C fan isn’t kicking in. Will see how the trip to London tomorrow goes on the highway.

Lesson learned: OEM Nissan parts for anything engine related.

[Scrape]

Quite different. Looks like the springs are different as well.

[ZR]

We make a point of using OE thermostats the last few years, cuts down on comebacks just like yours would have been.

[LX89]

I've had a MotoRad 195* high flow thermostat in my Mustang for a long time,probably close to 20 years,not exactly sure.

Back then they were well made with thicker metal,large opening.
At some point they cheaped out and used thinner metal and a smaller opening.

[LX89]

When the original thermostat crapped out in my fathers 97 Accord 2.2,I went to the parts store and the guy looked it up and gave me a 195* Stant t-stat which I assumed was correct.

It wasn't.
With the 195* Stant the engine ran hotter and when you shut the engine off one of the fans would run for over a minute then turn off.
I looked it up and a 180* was the correct t-stat for that car.
Put in a 180* Stant and that solved the problem and the car still throws off a ton of heat from the heater.

[RedSN]

Between coats of drywall mud on some patching in the basement, decided to change my sparkplugs. With almost 200k on the odo, figured it was time.

https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-g7F4KnL/0/MMXnFmLgCcjpDtbsr8msn5m2qf2G6qMqc97k6sgL7/M/IMG_3075-M.jpg

Only got 3 done today, as accessing the right side plugs requires removing the upper intake.
Plugs came out surprisingly easy, with only a little resistance from minor corrosion. And the plugs still looked like new. Think I could have gone another 200k on them.
Will see how the other 3 look tomorrow.

edit: I know Zippy is yelling at the screen for me to shampoo the engine bay…

Update: intake back on, right side plugs done, fired right up and purrs. Drywall is not done.

[RedSN]

Getting to know the parts guy at Nismo better. At some point, he’s going to start trusting me when I ask for a certain part number. I have the shop manual for my truck, and come ready with the parts list I need.

This time up was a rear oil seal for the transfer case.

Removed the driveshaft, popped the old seal out, and reinstall new seal. So far so good. Test drive is to London (again) tonight.
Because nobody ever has the one-off specialty tools for jobs like this, always fun trying to find objects around the house that will work. In this case, the old oil cap (a plastic collar that goes over the shaft and sits between the oil seal and the dust cap) and a piece of 2” ABS pipe to protect the shaft was used to hammer the seal in. Then a 4” piece of PVC pipe was the perfect size to hammer the new dust cap on.
https://photos.smugmug.com/16-Frontier-1/i-NJdHr9N/0/K4tRqCr4Kkt4j3gDGx7FBsqvcrvNqJd2qJwpF4nCN/L/IMG_3091-L.jpg