2004 V6 3.9 Mustang Convertible

[Richmond]

I was travelling north on the 400 last night when totally out of nowhere the car shuttered, lost power ( the check engine light came on) and the engine died.

I was not able to restart it, so I had it towed home. My son in law has a tool that can read the codes and this is what he sent me.

"The current code was P0320 ignition/distributer engine speed input cicuit. There was also a p0300 p0301 and p0305 (cylinder misfire)code associated with it. "

What do you make of the problem?

[ZR]

Check the crankshaft position sensor is still plugged in or damage to the wiring in that vicinity. Also confirm trigger wheel has not fallen off or been damaged. Not sure on the 3.9 but the odd 3.8 balancer split at the key way, elongated the slot or crank bolt broke n fell out.

[Richmond]

Thank you for the advice. I am a lot more familiar with 351 Cleveland engines so I have a lot to learn about this one.

Richmond

[ZR]

You'll get it.

[Richmond]

Tonight I discovered that my crank shaft pulley bolt and washer are missing and need to be replaced. Which I will do once I get the parts.

Any idea what might have caused the problem. The car only has 71K on it.

[ZR]

Balancer needs to be removed, inspect both it and the crank / crank key for damage. If your lucky, bolt just fell out, odd time they break off in the crank itself. There are options if it's broken off inside. If the balancer is indeed damaged, gotta be 110% sure you get the 3.9L version.

[ZR]

Cause, thoughts fall something between.........
-engine harmonics
-poor engine balance
-crappy crank bolt
-bolt too tight
-bolt too loose
-balancer made out of poor material, actually compresses a hair which leaves the bolt under torqued.
-crank key slot in the balancer itself poorly cut, allows balancer to walk ever so slightly which in turns sees the bolt either break or fall out. Sometimes the key itself will break.

[ZR]

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/v6-tech/153948d1334776503-spark-advance-varies-12-40-degrees-idle-balancer-1999-3.8-mustang-002.jpg

[Richmond]

ZR you are amazing . I read your post, went outside to check to see if the bolt had broken and guess what it had. What do you recommend I do to remove the broken bolt?

[ZR]

You'll need to first remove the balancer to properly inspect balancer itself and crankshaft. With any luck the piece is broken off flush or at least close, at that point, can weld a nut to it and remove. Sorry to have been right on this one.

[Richmond]

Balancer needs to be removed, inspect both it and the crank / crank key for damage. If your lucky, bolt just fell out, odd time they break off in the crank itself. There are options if it's broken off inside. If the balancer is indeed damaged, gotta be 110% sure you get the 3.9L version.

I inspected the crank pulley and it looks good. no signs of wear. The crank also looks fine. You mention a crank key , does that fit in the slot on the crank pulley. If so what is it made of? Would you happen to have a picture that I could reference.

[ZR]

Key fits into the slot cut in the crankshaft, prevents the balancer from spinning.
Had the balancer slipped part way off the crankshaft?

[Richmond]

yes It had moved perhaps between a 1/4 inch to 1/2 an inch.

but I believe the key is still in place.

the slot on the balancer looks to be in perfect condition.

[ZR]

That would explain loosing crank trigger signal.
Next is balancer off to see how far below the crank face the bolts broken.

[Richmond]

The bolt is recessed at least 1/2 inch. No threads are exposed.

[ZR]

Do you mean recessed 1/2 below face of the balancer or face of the crank itself?

[Richmond]

the face of the crank.

[ZR]

I'd think your resigned to a large easy out and at least some heat (may have loctite). Drilling perfectly centered / straight is a must, as is using a quality easy out and not overheating. Be sure to pack around the seal with a rag to prevent any chips from dropping into the engine.

[Richmond]

I followed you instructions and I have removed the broken Crank pulley bolt.

everything looks great. crank pulley balancer, crank treads, etc. and I have a new bolt and washer .

But I still don't know what caused the problem. Is there anything else I can do to determine the cause?

[ZR]

My opinion, poor quality torque to yield bolts + engine harmonics. If it was mine, would much rather see a conventional torque ARP or similar bolt in it's place.

[Richmond]

My opinion, poor quality torque to yield bolts + engine harmonics. If it was mine, would much rather see a conventional torque ARP or similar bolt in it's place.

Can you advise what and where I should purchase.

[ZR]

Take a look at ARP's site to see if they make one.

[Richmond]

Take a look at ARP's site to see if they make one.

I checked by calling ARP and they do not have a specific replacement bolt. So I will use the Ford Replacement.

How many pounds torque should I apply to the bolt?

[ZR]

I can't find anything specific to the 3.9.

[Richmond]

Thanks for checking.

I will call Ford.

[ZR]

You know, keep reading about so many with broken bolts, gives a guy the idea Ford fudged up on this whole TTY deal. Perhaps the more prudent move would be a high grade stud n nut, hard to know for sure but suspect it would stand up better vs what they are offering.
I get how TTY is suppose to work but all too often you see in an engine thats prone to head gasket failures that studs n nuts cures it. May work out the same here.

[Richmond]

Thanks for checking.

I will call Ford.

Ford tell 118 LBS does that sound right?

[ZR]

Usually a tty bolt has a procedure involved.