DIY Installation Tech Tips in here.

[jibbijib]

So I'm a cheap mofo, and also somewhat capable. This thread is for me and those who want to do relatively simple installs of parts, and want to know the tricks that make life easier. Answered by those who have the experience.

For me I'm looking at doing my stainless steel braided lines plus new brake fluid, and front shocks.

I've done brakes before but I would like to know how to clear all fluid out the best way possible.

Next front shocks. It may seem pretty straight forward but my mind worries about the spindle mount holes. Is there a failsafe way to ensure the new shocks go in as close to the stock position as possible?

Anyone who needs to know stuff can ask here too.

Thanks

[RedSN]

First tip: the front 'shocks' are struts.

When removing the top nut, put a large screw driver in the slot at the top of the strut (that sounded dirty), then use a large wrench to remove the nut. Otherwise the strut will just spin.

[ZR]

First thing to remember, once you release the upper nut, strut n spring wanna go sailing. Must be adequately supported via the lower control arm. Pair of bolts that mount them to the spindle can be a PITA without an impact gun.
Lines, very straight forward provided the originals come loose, break a line or strip a nut n yer fubar'd. Same goes for break a bleeder in either a caliper or wheel cylinder.

[Tailites]

Jibb...bring her over...you can use the garage...my car is mobile now

you can use my screw drivers & pliers too

[1BAD92LX]

Brake fluid needs to be flushed from each corner to remove all old fluid properly.
Suck old brake fluid out of m/c reservoir and fill with new clean fluid so when you see new fluid at the caliper you know when to stop.
Hold brake pedal slightly depressed with a pry bar or snow brush etc when replacing flex lines, this closes the system and reduces how much fluid leaks out.

[bbriann]

Stainless steel braided lines won`t make the car run better...even if you need new lines I would just get regular replacement lines...but thats me
My car has bleeders on master cylinder and these must be bled before the ones on the brake calipers.

[jibbijib]

Given that I'll be going around tmp circuit a few times, I don't trust rubber lines. I already have all the parts I'm looking to install lol

[70XR7]

Jibb...bring her over...you can use the garage...my car is mobile now

you can use my screw drivers & pliers too

If he takes you up on this, mind if I tag along? the more I learn (even by watching), the better.

[Stephen06GT]

My DIY tip, if you're not sure about what your doing, and you are working on something important like brakes or steering, take it to an expert. You're welcome.

[92redragtop]

So I'm a cheap mofo, and also somewhat capable. This thread is for me and those who want to do relatively simple installs of parts, and want to know the tricks that make life easier. Answered by those who have the experience.

For me I'm looking at doing my stainless steel braided lines plus new brake fluid, and front shocks.

I've done brakes before but I would like to know how to clear all fluid out the best way possible.

Next front shocks. It may seem pretty straight forward but my mind worries about the spindle mount holes. Is there a failsafe way to ensure the new shocks go in as close to the stock position as possible?

Anyone who needs to know stuff can ask here too.

Thanks

I would recommend taking it to Rick for those "front shocks" of yours - those springs can have a nasty surprise if you're not sure of what you're doing.

[Tailites]

I would recommend taking it to Rick for those "front shocks" of yours - those springs can have a nasty surprise if you're not sure of what you're doing.

hey Richard...he can bring it here...I HATE springs....but Im also VERY aware of improper removal

done it...its not pleasant

[Tailites]

If he takes you up on this, mind if I tag along? the more I learn (even by watching), the better.

sure...bring beer & stand back

[92redragtop]

hey Richard...he can bring it here...I HATE springs....but Im also VERY aware of improper removal

done it...its not pleasant

LOL sure! I know you respect the damage they can do and that's what matters with working on these.

[jibbijib]

Steering rack and pump flush without taking lines off the rack... Go

[RedSN]

Why no remove the lines?

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4W2mzb1TcHE/T0u_9sCiWsI/AAAAAAAAAEo/UmgX00_JvxM/s320/jackie+chan.png


-Remove serpentine belt
-disconnect return hose from pump and stick it in a catch bottle
-cap off return nipple on pump
-spin pulley by hand while constantly refilling reservoir.
-turn steering lock to lock a few times while flushing
-dump out old fluid from time to time and watch the color of the fluid in the catch container. eventually it will get start coming out clean and clear. It should take about 1.5-2 quarts.

[jibbijib]

Thanks Don.

Needed someone else's input because I like to mentally prepare for hiccups that inevitably occur to procedures I attempt, just to render them useless.

When I was going through it in my mind I was figuring the method you described (minus the feed of fresh fluid) but wondered if it would actually pump through the rack itself.

What I meant about not removing the lines, is not removing the hard lines that are on the rack itself. I just wanted to remove the return line.

[ZR]

Good idea on belt off / rotate by hand Don.

[jibbijib]

Got a nice little drum brake kit from crash yesterday with nicely working adjusters. Should be getting the wheel cylinders today and putting it all together maybe tomorrow evening!