Help with etest fail

[b1lk1]

Attached a scan of the paper, I'm thinking vacuum leak or thermostat opening too soon but am open to suggestions,

[ZR]

What is your combo?
What thermostat?
Base timing is at?

[BOOOSTD]

^^ What ZR said + age of fuel in tank

[Four cam slam]

Hydrocarbon, is unburnt fuel. Advance your base timing to about 18 degrees advanced initial. Leave your spout in. The extra ignition lead will also send your nox readings through the roof, but the new test doesnt read nox anyway.

[Tailites]

What thermostat?

ya...she needs to be hot...sometimes they stick open

if its doesnt get up to operating temps...the computer dumps fuel in

[b1lk1]

Combo is b-cam, edlerock performer, bbk70MM, factory ford 70MM MAF, GT40 heads, stock ignition, longtubes with catted x-pipe.

I'm thinking it's a combo of old gas and not hot enough, gonna change the thermostat no matter what. Timing was set to 10 to base spout out.

[Ponyryd]

With a cam it's hard to pass with a low idle, needs to be around 1000rpm.

[b1lk1]

I have it now set around 1100RPM, it was around 750 when tested.

[ZR]

I'd start with (assuming all emissions stuff is intact n hooked up)
190 stat
base timing at 4-5 deg
idle at 1000-1100
2ltrs methyl hydrate
fresh regular gas

I've got several guys running the above with a B cam and are passing with flying colors (shorties with cats vs your long tubes though).

[Tailites]

mine passed with a custom cam...then an F cam...

so its doable...dont sweat it...just get everything good...it WILL pass

[b1lk1]

Thanks for the advice/support I can't wait to drive it when the snow melts!

[ZR]

Let us know how u make out

[BOOOSTD]

My pre-turbo combo had long tubes with catted X-pipe, heads, intake with B cam and it passed easy with 7* timing, 180 T-Stat, fresh fuel and making sure she was hot. Good luck!

[onDjuice]

B cam = pull timing and lower fuel pressure. Pass etest with no problems.

[BOOOSTD]

My pre-turbo combo had long tubes with catted X-pipe, heads, intake with B cam and it passed easy with 7* timing, 180 T-Stat, fresh fuel and making sure she was hot. Good luck!

Forgot to mention that I bumped the idle up too; was as close to limit as possible

[b1lk1]

1250rpm is the limit, figured I was pushing it at 1100, just in case it finds a new idle when I show up like these cars seem to do, lol.

[Slope]

just in case it finds a new idle when I show up like these cars seem to do when the Base Idle is set improperly

10-4.

[ZR]

Closer to the limit the better.
Sadly, all too many discount how important base idle and TPS set up is to how well it runs n drives.

[b1lk1]

My real problem is that I have nearly 0 experience with the 5.0 and fuel injection. All the hotrods I've built in the last 25 years have been carbed, and I haven't kept up on tech. I can't say I followed any procedure to set the TPS, but the person I got the setup from did so I assumed it was good. The only thing I changed in the entire motor was the cam and lifters. I did have 24# injectors in it before switching to proper 19#ers and I have never cleared the computer since the first time I started the engine 2 years ago. I can take any car apart and get it back together without a sweat, but don't ask me how things work, lol.

[b1lk1]

Got my woodstove working in my garage, FINALLY (2 weeks ago)! Got to do some work to the car, did the idle relearn and such and added some actual LX tailpipes. Once I get some fresh gas in there and put a few miles on it I feel confident, even my wife noticed the exhaust smelled like stale gas.

Quick video of idle, sounds so much better than last year:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hut-U0ws1Bs

[Tailites]

its hunting a tad...not being nit picky...just an observation...mines worse btw

but when it heats up it runs fine...is yours the same?

Im sure Slope will have a comment...he likes everything stock/stockish on the computer Fox cars

[b1lk1]

I am running a B cam and 1.7 rockers so the idle is not gonna be smooth. I have a stock HO cam I am tempted to put in to smooth it out, but I love some lumpy idle, lol.

The warmer it gets the better, but I really need to change the thermostat to get it hotter.

[Slope]

I am running a B cam and 1.7 rockers so the idle is not gonna be smooth. I have a stock HO cam I am tempted to put in to smooth it out, but I love some lumpy idle, lol.

The warmer it gets the better, but I really need to change the thermostat to get it hotter.

Leave the 1.7 rockers and put the stock cam in it. You will pick up HP/TQ and most of all, driveability.

192 or 195 thermostat.

[b1lk1]

I do have GT40 heads that are pretty well worked over, the guy I got them from spent a lot of cash on them, he was pissed as he could have bought aluminum heads for the same price (somewhere around $1100 I believe). Right now it starts falling off around 6200RPM, but it has killer throttle response and roasts them dried out old 245/50's like no tomorrow through the first three gears and in 2nd on a roll around 40kmph I can break them free at will too.

I have another motor I'm gonna start rebuilding and will be using the stock cam as I want a supercharger before the end of the summer. Right now I just want it through e-testing so I can fix the rusty rear quarters and get a real paint job.

I was thinking 195 degree too so that is what I'm going with.

[Slope]

I was thinking 195 degree too so that is what I'm going with.

Big misconception on thermostat temperatures. Everyone "thinks" that anything over 180 is "too hot".

Ask them for an explanation next time. Their usual answer: "it just is".

I shake my head EVERY time.

Remember what Ford put in there from the factory and how bad we can beat these cars. Oh, they had to warranty the cars they sold too...

[b1lk1]

I hear ya, I feel that anything under 190 is not gonna let it warm up enough to run closed loop properly too.

[Slope]

I hear ya, I feel that anything under 190 is not gonna let it warm up enough to run closed loop properly too.

Bingo.

I love the way the oil changes and what under the valve covers look like on a 160* thermostat motor...

Bleh!

[onDjuice]

The high temp setting are for emission's..

[ZR]

^ We'll have to agree to disagree, siding with Slope on this one.
To me the ideal set up would be a 190deg stat with an thermostatically controlled oil cooler to ensure constant (as constant as possible) temps + ability to keep temps from climbing. You'll find most run a cooler stat because the cooling system alone isn't able to control max temp under a wide range of driving conditions and outside temps. In this instance, engine spends far too much time running at temps that don't bring oil temps up correctly plus keep the computer bouncing things from open to closed loop which in turn makes for utterly filthy engine internals.

[ZR]

Case in point, modding my own to remove the factory oil cooler which is really an oil heater plus addition of an external cooler, been far better able to control max temps along with how long it takes to reach them. I still need a slightly larger cooler and a thermostat to control it (cooler is here, remote stat for it arrived on Monday), with that I'll be able to go back to the stock thermostat which will in turn bring coolant temps back to optimum, same for oil temps all the while being able to beat it on the road course without and concern of overheating.
All of my other attempts to better control it were directed solely on the cooling system with results that varied between moderate to no difference at all. Those included, huge rad and reservoir, huge intercooler and reservoir, cooler higher flow thermostat, fan set to come on early, etc. Feel pretty strongly that I may have been able to stay with all the stock stuff had I moved towards the oil cooler mod first. Bought into the whole this rad / stat / intercooler will lower your temps x degrees etc. All it meant was the engine spent too much time running at temps that are not conducive to long engine life.
With coolant temps finally under control, I'm ready to install the killer chiller which will lower IAT's and keep the engine closer to max h/p no matter the temps outside. Mission accomplished but it's be a fairly expensive lesson.

[onDjuice]

^ We'll have to agree to disagree, siding with Slope on this one.
To me the ideal set up would be a 190deg stat with an thermostatically controlled oil cooler to ensure constant (as constant as possible) temps + ability to keep temps from climbing. You'll find most run a cooler stat because the cooling system alone isn't able to control max temp under a wide range of driving conditions and outside temps. In this instance, engine spends far too much time running at temps that don't bring oil temps up correctly plus keep the computer bouncing things from open to closed loop which in turn makes for utterly filthy engine internals.

No problem bro.. I was simply stating that the factory setting are for reaching emission standard at the time.. Nothing to do with power.

[Speedtospare]

Leave the 1.7 rockers and put the stock cam in it. You will pick up HP/TQ and most of all, driveability.

192 or 195 thermostat.

Your saying a stock cam with 1.7 rockers will make more HP than B cam with 1.7's?

[ZR]

Correct engine temp certainly revolves around emissions but it's just as important to engine health and longevity. Allow it to run too cool, build up of carbon in the cylinders and crud in the oil will ruin an otherwise healthy engine in relatively short order. The old skool hot rod thinking that anything over 180deg is bad for an engine could not be further from the truth. On the flip side, due to huge improvements in engine management, some later models vehicles run cooler vs one of say 10 or so years ago.

[Slope]

Your saying a stock cam with 1.7 rockers will make more HP than B cam with 1.7's?

Average + "below the curve" HP/TQ on E7/GT40 Irons, 100%

I'll supply a Fel-Pro timing cover gasket kit for anyone who wants to test the theory.

[onDjuice]

Correct engine temp certainly revolves around emissions but it's just as important to engine health and longevity. Allow it to run too cool, build up of carbon in the cylinders and crud in the oil will ruin an otherwise healthy engine in relatively short order. The old skool hot rod thinking that anything over 180deg is bad for an engine could not be further from the truth. On the flip side, due to huge improvements in engine management, some later models vehicles run cooler vs one of say 10 or so years ago.

The op asked for etest help. All i stated is that the factory has to meet emission standard and warranting the vehicle at the same time.. Has for more power the longevity of any motor will be shortened has hp climbs..

[onDjuice]

Average + "below the curve" HP/TQ on E7/GT40 Irons, 100%

I'll supply a Fel-Pro timing cover gasket kit for anyone who wants to test the theory.

I got lots of gaskets bro.. I'll supply the beer and pizza you the labour..

[Slope]

I got lots of gaskets bro.. I'll supply the beer and pizza you the labour..

Great.

Who foots the Dyno time + fluids/shop supplies?