Battery Relocation

[Slick_89_Hatch]

Hey guys,

Thinking of relocating my battery to the trunk (hatch area) on my 89 over the winter for better weight distribution.
Has anyone done this? What is the best way/kit to accomplish it? I downfalls I should be aware of?

Also, for TMP or St Thomas, will I require an exterior shut off switch? I really don't want to run one but will consider it if I have to.
It's only a street car that I may take to the drag strip 2 or 3 times a season.

Thanks in advance!

[MEANMCHN]

I did one on my 99 GT, but then just switched to a Braille AGM Battery. At 6.9lbs I saved about 40-45lbs on the car (I weighed my stock motorcraft battery and it was 52lbs I believe). It's a noticeable difference, basically saving you the weight of 3/4 tank of gas.

The 6.9lb battery is about the same cost as a battery relocation kit:

http://www.jegs.com/p/Braille-Battery/Braille-Advanced-AGM-Lightweight-Racing-Batteries/763922/10002/-1

[Slick_89_Hatch]

How are they for normal day to day usage? Any drawbacks compared to the OEM battery? I have a 3g alt upgrade but do have 2 amps in the car that get occasional usage as I leave my sub box out quite a bit.

[TheMustangShow]

Wouldn't a lightweight Braille Batt be less of a PITA?

[HyperGT]

Must admit when i ran mine I had nothing but charging issues etc. I am sure it can be done properly but I would go with a lightweight battery, less hassle instant rewards and no long cables, cut off switches etc.

Looks like they make them for cars with stereos etc and for daily drivers:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Braille-Battery/147/B2015/10002/-1?parentProductId=763922#moreDetails

[Slick_89_Hatch]

Can anyone confirm how much a stock battery weighs? I'll have to weigh mine when I take it out.

[HyperGT]

35-38lb i would think

[MEANMCHN]

I only had one no start issue where the car sat for almost a month between track days (I also believe my alternator is getting on the worn out side and it's not charging as well as it should). Other than that I find it's great. I went on the extreme end and got the 6lb battery, but you can go mid-way for a 12-15lb battery and save significant weight. For the cost of the battery it's a good option. If you don't drive the car a lot like I do (basically just to and from the track), put it on a trickle charger and no worries. I only had to jump the car once and I would've probably had to do it with the motorcraft battery. My motorcraft battery was knocking on around 50lbs, it was insanely heavy compared to the Braille. The Braille is also a dry battery so you don't have to vent it and it can't spill.

1963

[jibbijib]

AGM batteries all the way. They don't use fluid per se, its more like a dry cell. You can cut the barrtery in half and it wont spill at all. Plus they are lighter and much more powerful than lead acid batteries. Another plus is they can handle deep cycles like a boss and cope well with storage. An AGM, plus battery relocation to the trunk is not only a weight savings but a hell of a lot safer. You will need to build a respectable battery box that has adequate protection from sparks and a shutoff, but it would be worth it.

Sure it's more pricey, but very worth it.

[Not4you]

I used the universal kit from Summit in my coupe many years ago. I never had any issues with holding a charge or charging or whatever. but now having seen the smaller batteries in this thread, I would have gone that route instead.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

I am super curious about a lightweight battery, many guys are even running small tractor and motorcycle batteries. Being that my car doesn't see winter, I assume that I can get by with something much smaller?

[MEANMCHN]

I am super curious about a lightweight battery, many guys are even running small tractor and motorcycle batteries. Being that my car doesn't see winter, I assume that I can get by with something much smaller?

If you want to give it a try you can borrow my battery. I have my last track day on October 16th, then the car goes away. You're more than welcome to see what it's like for a weekend or whatever.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

I might just take you up on that! Thanks!

[jibbijib]

A motorcycle battery won't have the cranking amps to turn your car over. Tractor more likely. Foxes need a lot of power to start their super high horsepower motors that have the cylinders coated with Turtle Wax.

Just go for it, you've got nothing to lose. Plus I'm trained in the art of batteries.

[MEANMCHN]

Ya, I agree with the motorcycle battery not being up to the job. The Braille battery I have has 590 pulse cranking amps, the motorcraft had 800 and something cold cranking amps. Since you're not driving your car around -15 to -20 and it's not a diesel truck you don't really need a battery that can discharge that many amps for so long. Braille has long been in the racing game and all of the guys I've met at the track with track cars or just looking to save weight go with Braille. That's why I decided on it, peer pressure, everyone's got one. I had no faith that it could start the car but it was worth it to give it a try, and I find the car starts every bit as good as the giant Canadian Tire battery. Pretty much the cheapest way to lose 40lbs on your car.

[tulowd]

I bought an Odyssey PC925 several years ago and installed it in the trunk. Claimed weight is 26 lbs. Needed no charging after sitting 2 yrs in garage. pretty amazing.
I would have gone with a Braille if I wasn't planning on a monstrous 3000W Rockford sound system and need battery juice. This model is the only one I found that fits under the vert roof when retracted, so it's installed between the shock towers for best protection.

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg582/tulowd/87%20Vert%20TU%20LOWD2/IMG_2748_zpsfd9a39cc.jpg

[Slick_89_Hatch]

Anyone have thoughts on using something smaller like a Civic Battery instead? I'd imagine it's quite a bit lighter?

[MEANMCHN]

Any AGM battery will be lighter, but the wet cell batteries are all fairly heavy, regardless of what car it's in.

The odyssey battery is about 26lbs and $198 for a standard size replacement AGM battery.

Odyssey also has a powersports battery that gets as low as 11.4lbs:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Odyssey-Batteries/501/PC545/10002/-1?parentProductId=743313#moreDetails

Braille has the 6.9lb:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Braille+Battery/147/B106/10002/-1

Basically the same price. Braille is a bit lighter and has higher peak pulse cranking amps. I went full retard when I got the battery and did a lot of research and drove a lot of track cars with the Braille battery so it was an easy sell, especially because the lightweight battery is comparable to the replacement price of a standard battery. It's rarely the case with the lightweight stuff.

[TheMustangShow]

Any AGM battery will be lighter, but the wet cell batteries are all fairly heavy, regardless of what car it's in.

The odyssey battery is about 26lbs and $198 for a standard size replacement AGM battery.

Odyssey also has a powersports battery that gets as low as 11.4lbs:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Odyssey-Batteries/501/PC545/10002/-1?parentProductId=743313#moreDetails

Braille has the 6.9lb:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Braille+Battery/147/B106/10002/-1

Basically the same price. Braille is a bit lighter and has higher peak pulse cranking amps. I went full retard when I got the battery and did a lot of research and drove a lot of track cars with the Braille battery so it was an easy sell, especially because the lightweight battery is comparable to the replacement price of a standard battery. It's rarely the case with the lightweight stuff.

What do you think of the Braille Lithiums, big dollars still but I heard starting in January, there will be a price drop.

http://cdn3.volusion.com/5cfxm.hxrs6/v/vspfiles/photos/BRB-i34CX-2.jpg?1379654823

CF cases, and mega cranking amps.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

Any AGM battery will be lighter, but the wet cell batteries are all fairly heavy, regardless of what car it's in.

The odyssey battery is about 26lbs and $198 for a standard size replacement AGM battery.

Odyssey also has a powersports battery that gets as low as 11.4lbs:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Odyssey-Batteries/501/PC545/10002/-1?parentProductId=743313#moreDetails

Braille has the 6.9lb:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Braille+Battery/147/B106/10002/-1

Basically the same price. Braille is a bit lighter and has higher peak pulse cranking amps. I went full retard when I got the battery and did a lot of research and drove a lot of track cars with the Braille battery so it was an easy sell, especially because the lightweight battery is comparable to the replacement price of a standard battery. It's rarely the case with the lightweight stuff.

That Braille at 6.9lbs is very tempting. Maybe I can check yours out when I pick up the tires?

[MEANMCHN]

What do you think of the Braille Lithiums, big dollars still but I heard starting in January, there will be a price drop.

http://cdn3.volusion.com/5cfxm.hxrs6/v/vspfiles/photos/BRB-i34CX-2.jpg?1379654823

CF cases, and mega cranking amps.

Aren't they like $1200?

[TheMustangShow]

Aren't they like $1200?


Yes, for now.

[StratGT]

I bought my Moroso Battery relocation kit from Amazon.ca...right now there is one listed for $80 with free shipping. Then I purchased the wiring and connectors from Traction in Mississauga. Taking 40lbs+ off the nose was a tremendous help with traction.

[ttpinto]

Aren't they like $1200?


Wow!!! The parts you could buy for $1200

[Slope]

Wow!!! The parts Fox you could buy for $1200

Agreed.

[MEANMCHN]

That Braille at 6.9lbs is very tempting. Maybe I can check yours out when I pick up the tires?

Ya, I saw it and didn't believe it would work, but it does what a battery should. You can definitely check it out on Friday. I'm getting the tires installed in the morning, then picking up an engine block so I'll be around in the afternoon.

[1BAD92LX]

Bringing this back up as a possible winter project
I like how this is done
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/m5lp-0210-trunk-mounted-battery-install/
Just unsure of why you need to add a relay to the starter signal circuit going to the starter, could you not just use a short wire from the starter positive post to the solenoid on the starter?

[Slick_89_Hatch]

I would also like to know this as I am probably going to relocate my battery to the rear in the spring.

[Frankie]

If your car is using a stock fox starter, there is no solenoid so the relay is not required.

[TurboFox]

Im pretty sure you can just get a civic battery and those weigh in at about 27lbs. Its an easy 15lb loss. When my battery kicks the bucket it is something I am going to do.

[Tailites]

magneto...chuck the battery

of course you will have ta push start it

[1BAD92LX]

If your car is using a stock fox starter, there is no solenoid so the relay is not required.

Factory starter is long gone. Has mini starter with solenoid attached

[Tailites]

Factory starter is long gone. Has mini starter with solenoid attached

you can use the existing solenoid on the fender & wire up the mini

if anyone is installing a mini...two solenoids...or you can delete either one

[ZR]

Chuckle every time I see a mini install using both solenoids. Depending on the instruction version, some say to use both...............duh!!!!

[Slope]

Chuckle every time I see a mini install using both solenoids.

I guess you've had a laugh at every late '91 through '93 Fox Mustang that arrived your shop then...

[ZR]

I do.
Almost like Bill looked at Ted the first time they installed one on the line and debated taking off the original solenoid then laughed n left it in place.
Just how many switches does it take to activate a Ford starter motor.

[Slope]

Just how many switches does it take to activate a Ford starter motor.

3.

[ZR]

True dat.

[onDjuice]

M.A.D enterprises.. Move the solenoid with the battery. if done right you should have no problems..

[1BAD92LX]

Chuckle every time I see a mini install using both solenoids. Depending on the instruction version, some say to use both...............duh!!!!

Somebody wired my car this way, and it still is.

[1BAD92LX]

Just curious with the reason for the extra relay in picture 25

[ZR]

They are using that one in the truck as the starter relay. That way, no live large cable running front to rear that might / would cause a fire should the car suffer a catatrophic accident and damage the cable itself. Smaller feed rear to front would mearly burn off in a second or two vs the huge amps the larger cable would carry.
Cool stuff for a race car but to me a fail on a street ride that has big amp acc's to feed. Yes most can and will run it that way with little to no trouble while a number of others will see voltage related issues with ignition system or even stereos. Live cable well supported and properly routed to prevent damage is well within the bounds of being safe, few late model rides have trunk mounted batts.

[Tailites]

M.A.D enterprises.. Move the solenoid with the battery. if done right you should have no problems..

absolutely the best way...reason?

the hot wire...in other words the red wire will be very short in the trunk to the solenoid

just safer imo not having a long hot wire to the front of the car which could short out

& ground somewhere causing a fire...also guys will run this wire under the car...dont like this personally

if you want to run a long hot wire under car & leave the solenoid on the fender in the front

get some plastic abs under the car & run the wire thru it

sorry Rick...just read your post...after I posted...did you know about the plastic abs trick?

Not a bad idea on the surface but bet it would make the whole affair large enough that it would be more prone to being snagged by a curb / speed bump etc.

[jibbijib]

few late model rides have trunk mounted batts.
And thems have the inline fuses in the back by the battery. Plus safety shutoffs for accidents. Manufacturers do this for a reason....

I think they want to avoid another Pinto fiasco...

[ZR]

Inline fuse is usually in place for ECM and related units only, full power through the main cable to the front. Boosting an HHR or Saturn from the front / underhood terminal, many times results in electric power steering fuse blown. Always best to boost via the battery only regardless of what the label under the hood says. Wish they would have made it more easily reached.
Impact shut off is for fuel pump.

[jibbijib]

Unfortunately those vehicles tend to be locked out and the trunk wont pop til it has power. Also the jumper leads under the hood are terrible.

Gm was winning in the battery orientation department for a good number of years... (sarcasm)

[Slick_89_Hatch]

So Rick, if you were relocating a battery to the truck of a Fox with a stock starter...how would you do it? This is basically what I want to know as I trust your opinion and knowledge.
If it makes much of a difference, id prefer to leave my stock solenoid in the engine compartment.

[tulowd]

Done dozens of battery relocations / secondary battery installs for huge sound systems back in the 80s and 90's. No problems with running large gage(4g isn't large, lol) cables front to back as long as they are protected from chafing thru as well as fused if the cable is grounded thru an accident/crash. Biggest one I did was three locomotive batteries in the back of a van - something like 300 lbs of batteries powering a 10 000W sound system - current potential was something insane like 10 000 CCA @ 14.4 V.

I always use ANL325A forklift style fuse / holder within 12" of the battery. This will pass 700A of instantaneous current without blowing, plenty for any starter. Don't forget to use at least one equally sized ground cable between the battery and the frame, AND one between the frame and the engine block ( I use 2).

The front to rear doesn't need a fuse; if car is crashed hard and cable is grounded - rear fuse pops, engine still running; the alternator will burn out in the worst case scenario.

Cars like a 928 Porsche and BMW850 (dual trunk mounted batteries!) with rear mounted OEM batteries had zero fusing for the main cables between battery and starter circuit.

If doing a rear battery; a 4 g is nowhere near enough. Use at least a 2g cable; the big stereo stuff is ok; contrary to lots of naysayers, good welding cable is fine. I have 2/0 running from back to front - came out of my old car is 20 yrs old and not corroded in the least.
Make sure all the connectors are crimped and soldered - one of those puppies is loose and you will have some big problems, incl possibly a fire.

[Tailites]

^^good post...Im using welding cable to the front

Ive run the cable on the inside of the car...there are several good locations

especially along the side where the other wires run

but theres always the concern that it could chafe & short

best is trunk solenoid but you still need the heavy wire to the front...

its only hot when you start the engine...Im using the stock alternator too & underdrives

I have some discharge at idle...but I m usually on the highway

even heavy stop & go traffic hasnt been a problem...overheating...yes

[ZR]

Unfortunately those vehicles tend to be locked out and the trunk wont pop til it has power. Also the jumper leads under the hood are terrible.

Gm was winning in the battery orientation department for a good number of years... (sarcasm)

Hook to the front to pop trunk, open trunk n dig down to the battery to boost.

[tulowd]

^^good post...Im using welding cable to the front

Ive run the cable on the inside of the car...there are several good locations

especially along the side where the other wires run

but theres always the concern that it could chafe & short

best is trunk solenoid but you still need the heavy wire to the front...

its only hot when you start the engine...Im using the stock alternator too & underdrives

I have some discharge at idle...but I m usually on the highway

even heavy stop & go traffic hasnt been a problem...overheating...yes


Battery wire will have a magnetic field aka electronic noise around it, especially when the battery is being recharged at a high rate or when lots of accessories are on like A/C. rear defroster, amplifiers etc. Audio engine noise can come from this when other wires are run parallel and close to it. Yes, I've heard speaker wires absorb enough radiant noise to make tweeters whizz even with the amp output wires disconnected! Same of course with RCA / any kind of shielded analog signal cables. Optical or digital transmissions are unaffected.
Would imagine any sophisticated electronics and (engine) computers wouldn't like a large source of magnetic / electronic interference near them. Using a braided shield might help, but keeping the wires far apart is the best bet.

[92redragtop]

They are using that one in the truck as the starter relay. That way, no live large cable running front to rear that might / would cause a fire should the car suffer a catatrophic accident and damage the cable itself. Smaller feed rear to front would mearly burn off in a second or two vs the huge amps the larger cable would carry.
Cool stuff for a race car but to me a fail on a street ride that has big amp acc's to feed. Yes most can and will run it that way with little to no trouble while a number of others will see voltage related issues with ignition system or even stereos. Live cable well supported and properly routed to prevent damage is well within the bounds of being safe, few late model rides have trunk mounted batts.

Both my Lincoln LS and Volvo S60R have original factory trunk mounted batteries - LS battery is 10 years old this year and cranks easily in this cold weather and Volvo battery just died 2 weeks ago at 8 years old (but this car has aftermarket amp, electronically controlled suspension, etc.

[92redragtop]

So Rick, if you were relocating a battery to the truck of a Fox with a stock starter...how would you do it? This is basically what I want to know as I trust your opinion and knowledge.
If it makes much of a difference, id prefer to leave my stock solenoid in the engine compartment.

ZR did mine about 4 or 5 years ago using a red top Optima battery in the trunk with a basic battery hold-down (from Steeda I think) and it's worked well with no issues. Sometimes the car will sit for a month and the start up easily...even in winter. Also running a Powermaster alternator.

[92redragtop]

Unfortunately those vehicles tend to be locked out and the trunk wont pop til it has power. Also the jumper leads under the hood are terrible.

Gm was winning in the battery orientation department for a good number of years... (sarcasm)

Both my cars have emergency key entry for the trunk in case you lose all power.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

ZR did mine about 4 or 5 years ago using a red top Optima battery in the trunk with a basic battery hold-down (from Steeda I think) and it's worked well with no issues. Sometimes the car will sit for a month and the start up easily...even in winter. Also running a Powermaster alternator.

I'll talk to Rick about doing mine in the spring I think.

[ZR]

Securely mount the battery in the trunk / vent if it's not a gel style
Run #1 or #2 fine wound cable from battery neg to floor of the trunk for ground
Make a cable outta the same stuff to connect the engine to the chassis for ground
Run #1 or #2 find wound cable to the terminal the positive battery cable had previously been connected to (at the solenoid). Key is to route and secure cable where it's not prone to rubbing, chaffing or being burnt by the exhaust or making contact over a speed bump or similar.
Done.

[onDjuice]

I think i'll do a step by step when I do my car next month. And show you guys how its done right..

[ZR]

Not a bad idea on the surface but bet it would make the whole affair large enough that it would be more prone to being snagged by a curb / speed bump etc.



absolutely the best way...reason?

the hot wire...in other words the red wire will be very short in the trunk to the solenoid

just safer imo not having a long hot wire to the front of the car which could short out

& ground somewhere causing a fire...also guys will run this wire under the car...dont like this personally

if you want to run a long hot wire under car & leave the solenoid on the fender in the front

get some plastic abs under the car & run the wire thru it

sorry Rick...just read your post...after I posted...did you know about the plastic abs trick?

Not a bad idea on the surface but bet it would make the whole affair large enough that it would be more prone to being snagged by a curb / speed bump etc.

[ZR]

The system they describe looks awesome on the surface but if the alt caff's out the several feet of #8 wire is left to feed all acc's. All is still ok until the unaware driver turns on enough acc's to pop the #8 cables fuseable link. Now your dead in the water. Engine may even quit before the fuse pops as some overly sensitve ECM's go brain dead when the voltage drops even a volt or two under spec. Alt quiting and the driver not noticing immediately is a real life not at all uncommon scenario.
I also question the ability of the alts regulator to operate correctly when it's connection to the battery is going to see at least some voltage drop due to the length of the run and smallish wire used, may be wrong on that angle but do get the idea it would keep the alt in at least a partial overcharging scenario.
Pauls suggestion of a big ass fuse that can stand huge amps but blow in case of a short, to me makes the most sense (assuming you'd feel more secure if there is some sort of a fuse).
In the end, comes down to where your comfort level falls.

[tulowd]

I think i'll do a step by step when I do my car next month. And show you guys how its done right..

Sounds like you have some different ideas about how it should be done? Pls enlighten us.

[onDjuice]

^^^ I,m still learning bro so no enlightenment. I started in the auto trade at 14teen and have seen a lot of shit in the past 30 years.
I,ll do the M.A.D way of putting a battery in the trunk. And then we can debate..

[tulowd]

^^^ I,m still learning bro so no enlightenment. I started in the auto trade at 14teen and have seen a lot of shit in the past 30 years.
I,ll do the M.A.D way of putting a battery in the trunk. And then we can debate..

That's what makes sharing info on here so cool, is the variety and collective experiences. Began installing car audio professionally when I was 14; developing/tweak new car audio products for Pioneer Electronics at 26. Not a wrench, but been around it and track/hobby all my life.

[onDjuice]

^^^ I hear you bro. I away's say you never stop learning. My son would love to talk car audio with you he just loves it.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

Securely mount the battery in the trunk / vent if it's not a gel style
Run #1 or #2 fine wound cable from battery neg to floor of the trunk for ground
Make a cable outta the same stuff to connect the engine to the chassis for ground
Run #1 or #2 find wound cable to the terminal the positive battery cable had previously been connected to (at the solenoid). Key is to route and secure cable where it's not prone to rubbing, chaffing or being burnt by the exhaust or making contact over a speed bump or similar.
Done.

Thanks Rick. Sounds like most generic relocation kits would work just fine then.

[tulowd]

Thanks Rick. Sounds like most generic relocation kits would work just fine then.

Most of those kits have no fusing and also have less than correct mounting hardware. Sheet metal screws or 1/4 bolts thru sheetmetal will not hold a battery in place if you run into something.

X G/F of mine was burnt by battery acid when she crashed her Vega with the battery still in the stock location. In a hatchback, if the battery comes loose it becomes a missile that will kill you directly or with its contents. Overkill is the best bet here.

[Tailites]

^^^ I,m still learning bro so no enlightenment. I started in the auto trade at 14teen and have seen a lot of shit in the past 30 years.
I,ll do the M.A.D way of putting a battery in the trunk. And then we can debate..

or maybe you guys could debate the inner workings of transmissions...

pretty sure I know who would win that debate...:rockon:

[Tailites]

^^^ I,m still learning bro so no enlightenment. I started in the auto trade at 14teen and have seen a lot of shit in the past 30 years.
I,ll do the M.A.D way of putting a battery in the trunk. And then we can debate..

this is absolutely the best way imo...

although mine is not wired this way...http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/m5lp-0210-battery-relocation-and-wiring/

[ZR]

If properly mounted, even the plastic box with nylon strap will see it well secured. Yes key is to use adequate size bolts n washers etc or even pair of 3/8 studs with a steel bar over the batt itself.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

Most of those kits have no fusing and also have less than correct mounting hardware. Sheet metal screws or 1/4 bolts thru sheetmetal will not hold a battery in place if you run into something.

X G/F of mine was burnt by battery acid when she crashed her Vega with the battery still in the stock location. In a hatchback, if the battery comes loose it becomes a missile that will kill you directly or with its contents. Overkill is the best bet here.

Good points Paul, but I would definitely upgrade mounting hardware if what came with the kit was insufficient.

[MrTinkertrain]

a cool mod that's easy and full of benefits

[ZR]

Fuse set up that is quick and easy to mount right at the battery itself.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTI1NVgxNjAw/z/z0MAAOxydlFSzWgF/$_57.JPG

[NickD]

Princess auto in hamilton sells welding cable and ends up to 2/0 I think, I used to buy wire there when I was into car audio, that and a nice plastic box and you could do your own kit pretty easy.
I would run a fuse under the hood and at the battery, the under hood one is to protect the wire so if it shorts at one end it doesnt melt and catch the car on fire
I personally will be going the Braille route when the time comes

[Scott]

Fuse set up that is quick and easy to mount right at the battery itself.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTI1NVgxNjAw/z/z0MAAOxydlFSzWgF/$_57.JPG

That looks like a pretty neat fuse arrangement. When I did mine I mounted fuses on the battery case. 200 amp fuse with 1 gauge welding cable to the positive distribution point in the passenger fender well and a 150 amp fuse with 4 gauge welding cable direct to the alternator.

http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae40/Scott_GT_CS/Aluminator%20Build/IMG_3867_zps343bfdb6.jpg (http://s955.photobucket.com/user/Scott_GT_CS/media/Aluminator%20Build/IMG_3867_zps343bfdb6.jpg.html)

[ZR]

Looks slick.

[Tailites]

Looks slick.

yep...that aint no bungee cord kinda deal

[Scott]

any thoughts on running the cable from trunk to starter in the interior rather than external under the car?

That's how I did mine. These pictures are from my Air Lift line install but they show the battery cable routing. In my case the battery relocation was not about weight reduction as I wanted to put a Moroso coolant tank for the HE in the OEM battery location.
I ran two 1 gauge cables (positive and ground) from the trunk through the cabin passenger side and one 4 gauge positive cable to the starter.

Under rear seat.

http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae40/Scott_GT_CS/Aluminator%20Build/IMG_6264_zpsde66d506.jpg (http://s955.photobucket.com/user/Scott_GT_CS/media/Aluminator%20Build/IMG_6264_zpsde66d506.jpg.html)

Passenger rocker panel.

http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae40/Scott_GT_CS/Aluminator%20Build/IMG_6262_zps7eb5da80.jpg (http://s955.photobucket.com/user/Scott_GT_CS/media/Aluminator%20Build/IMG_6262_zps7eb5da80.jpg.html)

Pass through to the fender well.

http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae40/Scott_GT_CS/Aluminator%20Build/IMG_6259_zps2c567517.jpg (http://s955.photobucket.com/user/Scott_GT_CS/media/Aluminator%20Build/IMG_6259_zps2c567517.jpg.html)

[ZR]

I'm at the other end of the spectrum as Scott on that one, prefer to see them routed under the car + don't run a ground cable front to rear.

[tulowd]

Have always seen cables run inside passenger compartment. Never seen them run outside/underneath - either OEM or aftermarket. The cables need to be protected, especially if its welding cable with the softer rubber jacket. If routed underneath, needs to be protected from the elements as well as heat, snagging, etc.

Ground should be short, have never run one from front to back, but have used dual ground wires on engine as well as from battery to chassis. When in doubt, make the ground and power feed cables bigger, lol.

[ZR]

When in doubt make it bigger, surprised to see you say that Paul. ;)

[ZR]

Personally, if I'm going to have a battery cable running front to back, last thing I want is it close to me in the event of a situation where it could become damaged / chaffed enough to cause a fire but no so much that it's big amp fuse is gonna blow (or cable burn off). Very well protected when tied / strapped to the side of a SFC or similar.
Comes down to what you consider a hazzard + your own comfort level.

[jibbijib]

When in doubt make it bigger

That's what she said

[Slope]

That's what she said

:highfive:

[Scott]

any thoughts on running the cable from trunk to starter in the interior rather than external under the car?


That's how I did mine. These pictures are from my Air Lift line install but they show the battery cable routing. In my case the battery relocation was not about weight reduction as I wanted to put a Moroso coolant tank for the HE in the OEM battery location.
I ran two 1 gauge cables (positive and ground) from the trunk through the cabin passenger side and one 4 gauge positive cable to the starter.


I'm at the other end of the spectrum as Scott on that one, prefer to see them routed under the car + don't run a ground cable front to rear.

My 2001 Lincoln LS had a trunk mounted battery and the cable ran through the passenger side of the cabin to the firewall. I though if it was good enough for Lincoln it was good for me. Nothing wrong with properly secured under the floor routing, but the cable will be in the elements.

Agreed it was not necessary to run a ground cable to the front, but I elected to use the OEM ground location in the engine compartment.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

So just use a kit like this and add a fuse at the battery and an additional engine to chassis ground and done?
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/UPR-9005/Mustang-Battery-Relocation-Kit

[Tailites]

So just use a kit like this and add a fuse at the battery and an additional engine to chassis ground and done?
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/UPR-9005/Mustang-Battery-Relocation-Kit

I would still put the solenoid in the trunk

[ZR]

I get the solenoid in the trunk idea so the starter cable is dead except when triggered, but what are your gonna run forward to power acc's? I read the "run the rest of the vehicle off the alt" with a small wire to the back to charge the battery. What happens when the alt falters or fails, big amps required from wire that can't handle it and the resulting melted wire and fire? Still stand by not suitable for a street car with acc's.

[Tailites]

I get the solenoid in the trunk idea so the starter cable is dead except when triggered, but what are your gonna run forward to power acc's? I read the "run the rest of the vehicle off the alt" with a small wire to the back to charge the battery. What happens when the alt falters or fails, big amps required from wire that can't handle it and the resulting melted wire and fire? Still stand by not suitable for a street car with acc's.

many cars over the years have had trunk mounted batteries...(European cars mostly from what I recall)

be interesting to find out how they were wired cuz I really dont know

but manufacturers usually err on the side of safety

[ZR]

BMW battery mount. Read on a forum about a recall due to shorting out which in turn cuts engine power. No system that is absolutely fail safe. What some moving the battery to take wt off the front also forget, factoring in the wt of the x tra cable, box and related bits. Gains are not as large as one might think.


http://www.e90post.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7761&stc=1&d=1130334707

[Slick_89_Hatch]

As far as cable goes, I already have a 4awg running to the back for my stereo, so once I remove that and add in the cable for the battery weight gain should be very minimal. I am also sure ill be leaving my solenoid in the front.

[tulowd]

many cars over the years have had trunk mounted batteries...(European cars mostly from what I recall)

be interesting to find out how they were wired cuz I really dont know

but manufacturers usually err on the side of safety


read my previous post regarding this

[Tailites]

BMW battery mount. Read on a forum about a recall due to shorting out which in turn cuts engine power. No system that is absolutely fail safe. What some moving the battery to take wt off the front also forget, factoring in the wt of the x tra cable, box and related bits. Gains are not as large as one might think.


http://www.e90post.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7761&stc=1&d=1130334707

pretty sad...

maybe the ultimate solution is the Braille battery in the stock location

NOT in the rear at all

[1BAD92LX]

As far as cable goes, I already have a 4awg running to the back for my stereo, so once I remove that and add in the cable for the battery weight gain should be very minimal. I am also sure ill be leaving my solenoid in the front.

Or leave the 4awg for the alt to battery (fused). Larger wire just in case alt goes bad as Rick stated.
Move solenoid to trunk and run a 0/1awg like you going to anyway?

[ZR]

Or leave the 4awg for the alt to battery (fused). Larger wire just in case alt goes bad as Rick stated.
Move solenoid to trunk and run a 0/1awg like you going to anyway?

+1.
Since amp is close to the battery, no longer need for that, switch duty to supply for the rest of the ride and add 0/1 as Brad suggested.
Safe and secure.

[ZR]

pretty sad...

maybe the ultimate solution is the Braille battery in the stock location

NOT in the rear at all

+1 on that idea.

[Speedtospare]

Just for reference. TMP nor London ever gave me any problems with my car running 11.50's. No cage, rear mounted batter with no external switch. Battery is mounted well but in a Maine case which some places dont accept as well.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

Just for reference. TMP nor London ever gave me any problems with my car running 11.50's. No cage, rear mounted batter with no external switch. Battery is mounted well but in a Maine case which some places dont accept as well.

That's good to know...I was a little worried about that since I won't be putting in an external switch.

[B-blown]

my car has the 2 fuses one after the alt before heading back and one at the back by battery ....it was done this way when I bought the car and see no need to change it... my battery cable inside the interior under the carpet then out thru firewall at the pass side wheelwell (again as I purchased it) but mines not a true DD either but does see street use

[NickD]

I think I have a good fuse block for you and some 0g ring terminals and stuff left over from my car audio stuff, its all just seeming counter productive adding more weight and wiring....
I'll just leave this right here again (look up this vs the braile or copys)
http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-PC680-PC680-P-Battery/dp/B0002ILK6I

[Slick_89_Hatch]

Just checked a few things. The PC680 is 15lbs.
My stock Kirkland battery that I literally just weighed is 29.9lbs
14ft of 1/0 wire is 4.5lbs
Then you have to add the weight of the box for the trunk etc. At $113 US for the PC680 and about $150 for a good relocation kit the PC680 would be the way to go.

Would just have to figure out how to mount the PC680.

[NickD]

they make a lot of boxes for it, if yours is the same as the s197 ones people have found ways to utilize the sock bottom and ad a new hole in the strap so you can switch back an forth

[tulowd]

Just checked a few things. The PC680 is 15lbs.
My stock Kirkland battery that I literally just weighed is 29.9lbs
14ft of 1/0 wire is 4.5lbs
Then you have to add the weight of the box for the trunk etc. At $113 US for the PC680 and about $150 for a good relocation kit the PC680 would be the way to go.

Would just have to figure out how to mount the PC680.

I would be concerned that battery is too small to crank over the motor with any kind of compression pressure; that's why I went with the PC925; also cause my plan calls for a huge sound system

[NickD]

I would be concerned that battery is too small to crank over the motor with any kind of compression pressure; that's why I went with the PC925; also cause my plan calls for a huge sound system
I kinda thought the same with the rated cca, the tested ones are much higher and people daily cars with these (mustangs included) biggest issue is the smallest reserve capacity and toy cars sitting for weeks on end, basically what I took from my research is if its going to sit for more than a couple weeks throw a battery tender on it or disconnect it

[tulowd]

mine sat all winter, disconnected, and started right up no charging. Pretty awesome little powerhouse.