Restoration opinions please

[Quicksilver]

I have heard arguments both ways

1] buy the best car you can and go from there

2] buy the cheapest you can find and start there.

I'm 70 now, and thinking to retire in a year or two. My retirement gift from my wife is a mid 60's-mid 70's restomod. Either finished before purchase by others, or a basket case that I have done myself, to my spec.

The backstory. In 1963 when I was just 12, Studebaker came out with the Avanti. i immediately fell in love with it, and from then until my last move about 10 years ago I had an AMT Avanti plastic model car. I've lusted after one for all this time. About 10 years ago, I almost bought one, but it just didn't happen. Now, once again, I have a chance.
The choice is: do I buy a well preserved one, (price range 20-30,000 U.S.)and modify it, o4 a car in need of work(I have 4 on my list right now: one for $1500, one for $3000 (both run and drive) another for 6800(doesn't drive)and another for $8800(no motor, good body).
In an ideal world, It will get a crate engine, new interior, new front chassis clip(Art Morrison makes one specific)and of course a slick paint job. Believe it or not, my wife is ok with me spending this much money on the car, provided I sell the Jag.
I'm inclined to go for one of the cheap ones, since I'm replacing so much of it anyway, but I remember seeing Boyd Coddington and Dave Kindig, and Danny Koker saying get the best you can.
Of course, an Avanti is fibreglass, so the rust issue won't be there, so maybe the starting condition doesn't matter.
Not particularity looking for consensus, just opinions, or experience.

We are also planning to restore my son's 89 Foxbody coupe(Hammerhead on the board has made an offer to do the paint/body), so I hope to have a busy retirement

[Foxstang]

I've done both... pay more upfront for a nicer start or less for more work later....

Go for a better cleaner car upfront. Rust repair sucks, sucks bad... Even a mint roller is better than a fully optioned rust bucket.

[5.4MarkVIII]

A typically rust bucket will cost you more to fix than it is worth IF you are paying someone else to do it.

On the other hand there are a lot of people especially skilled at hiding what is really underneath with some body work and nice paint.

It’s not uncommon to spend more and still find a money pit.


just to clarify just because its fiberglass doesn't mean it cant be a rust bucket. frame, structure ext.

Imo find someone who is very familiar with these cars and bring them along to go over it.

also keep in mind you can "fix" fiber glass and make it look great but if you dont do it properly it will crack and delaminate.

[CON VERT]

I'd say , buy one already to go , jump in in and go, at 70 how many years can you enjoy it + it's going to take a good year or two to build it !!!! IMHO

[Old Fart]

Of course, an Avanti is fibreglass, so the rust issue won't be there, so maybe the starting condition doesn't matter.


I would be worried about the frame and attachment points for the fiberglass panels.

[Frankie]

I'd say if you're planning to do it yourself, you're going to want to enjoy the experience.

In that case, the less rust the better as everything comes apart easier and there's less of the dreaded bodywork.

[Stephen06GT]

Whatever your budget is, double it and add 10gs. ;)

[Laffs]

Nothing more expensive than a cheap project car. Best course is find someone else who put the money in to build it the way you'd want or at least has most of the parts and sorting figured out and pay $0.60 on the dollar, or find the nicest example you can and make it your own from there even if it takes longer.

I've seen more project blow up on the launch pad because someone bought the cheap one and was missing parts that took eons to source (problem with rare birds like the one you lust after) or it got stuck in the paint and body jail as the onion was peeled back.

Whatever you do make a plan, do as stated above and take you budget and just toss it out the window, and remember the point here is to enjoy the build and the end result.

[hammerhead]

Wow - talking about picking a rare one - I would think it all depends on your budget. It would be a bit of a shame to hack up a 30,000$ car to make a resto-mod especially one so rare. I think any of the names you mentioned would advise you against dismembering a classic with potential numbers matching - Art Morrison can make a complete frame and I think that would be more ideal than a front clip and easier to get the resto-mod stance - all other metal work to follow - I would think you need a solid plan and know how much of the original parts you want to have in the end eg. interior, emblems, lights, chrome pieces etc. - Fiberglass is not an automatic slam dunk either - This is exciting either way it will have a big price tag to create a resto-mod but I think thats the way to go if you want a nice cruzer with a modern feel - get a good plan and best of luck... would love to see this come to life...

[Quicksilver]

Whatever your budget is, double it and add 10gs. ;)

I'm well aware that this could be more than my Jag was brand new.

[Quicksilver]

Wow - talking about picking a rare one - I would think it all depends on your budget. It would be a bit of a shame to hack up a 30,000$ car to make a resto-mod especially one so rare. I think any of the names you mentioned would advise you against dismembering a classic with potential numbers matching - Art Morrison can make a complete frame and I think that would be more ideal than a front clip and easier to get the resto-mod stance - all other metal work to follow - I would think you need a solid plan and know how much of the original parts you want to have in the end eg. interior, emblems, lights, chrome pieces etc. - Fiberglass is not an automatic slam dunk either - This is exciting either way it will have a big price tag to create a resto-mod but I think thats the way to go if you want a nice cruzer with a modern feel - get a good plan and best of luck... would love to see this come to life...

Oddly, parts don't seem to be a problem with this car. Almost everything is readily available.

[Quicksilver]

I'd say , buy one already to go , jump in in and go, at 70 how many years can you enjoy it + it's going to take a good year or two to build it !!!! IMHO

Once the pandemic is done, Glenn, I would be expecting(asking, begging?) you to come help on a regular basis!!

[CON VERT]

^^^^ Only when I can push the Happy Stick to the floor ~ LOL, anytime Steve.

[Uncle Buck]

For me, the starting point needs to be rust free, complete and not heavily modified.

After that, it depends what the desire is.

If wrenching is your thing, then by all means buy one that needs mechanical upgrades. That's what I did with my 66 coupe.

If the preference is to drive and enjoy more than wrenching, get one that's all done and to your liking. In the long run this is the least expensive path.

[Zippy]

Buying the best body car you can is key to not being upside down thousands in a project.

[5.4MarkVIII]

since you are talking resto mod. is this something that has been done before?

fiberglass will flex. did these cars use a full frame? what kind of structure did they use for the glass.

its conceivable that there will be a limit to the power out put handlining limitations that this set up could handle. I realize that this is true for any platform but iI would worry that it could be lower.

would be seriously depressing to sink some serious coin into it and have it all crack under some spirited driving.

if you really love these cars and are planning some major changes to make it more of a modern performer, id vote pick a cheaper on that is complete and save the nice ones for originality

[Quicksilver]

I am sort of, maybe, possibly, confused. I was going to buy the one (a '63) for $1500(It runs and drives but needs a complete makeover); but then yesterday I came across a very nice one right here in Ontario. It's a 79, in what appears to be very good shape, and the price is $20,000.00
Now I'm thinking for for the newer one and enjoy it; modify it a bit at a time and have some fun. I'm beginning to wonder if I have the patience and/or skill to resurrect the '63, and maybe I'm better off in the long run to go for a much better car.

[Old Fart]

Is there a big difference between the 63 (original Avanti) and the 79 (Avanti II)?

[Quicksilver]

Is there a big difference between the 63 (original Avanti) and the 79 (Avanti II)?

The 66 and up model years all came with a Chevy engine.. I believe in 1978 they shifted from a Studebaker chassis to a Monte Carlo Chassis. The bumpers were different. There were certain safety regulations that had to be met, but otherwise they were pretty much the same.