2011 Mustang GT with rod knock

[paradigm]

I bought a used 2011 GT with the 5.0 Coyote motor from Thornhill in January and parked it up. I recently drove it back to NYC and after 2000km I started hearing a knocking from the driver side engine bay. I will admit I revved it up good a few times prior just to hear the motor, and the knock started after this. I drove the car about 30km after the noise started and then suddenly it got a lot worse. Oil pressure stayed constant until I could limp it home.

It turns out that rod bearing failure is common on the early coyote's.

Any idea on what a bottom end rebuild would cost me? Or is it better to swap the motor? Or take the loss and sell the car with a pooched motor as-is?

This is the first time I have owned a car and had such a catastrophic failure? I know if I was still in Toronto I would probably hit up ZR and have him do the work (not sure if he still does mechanic work).

[Laffs]

Hard to say what shops in NY charge TBH. Would you be pulling the motor/tearing it down/sending it off to be rebuilt yourself or having a shop do all the work? Likewise would you be pulling the motor and swapping with a good unit yourself? Also long term do you want to boost this thing/NA build that could mean some goodies find there way in to the refresh or do you just want a stock Coyote.

Sorry to hear about your luck though.

[ZR]

Howdy Mr, sorry to hear your having so much trouble. Yes still wrenching ever day.
Regardless of miles, doing partial rebuild on a Modular engine seldom if ever works out in the long run. Full rebuild is pricey but at least you'd know exactly what you have. Next best option, find yourself a low mileage used one and have it installed. Selling as is, most times peeps take what it would sell for undamaged then deduct the cost of a used engine and labor n post it on up. Seldom if ever will it bring that much money. After all, you know condition of rest of the car, someone unable to properly road test does not.
Need any advice or help with the decision, feel free to message.

[paradigm]

Hard to say what shops in NY charge TBH. Would you be pulling the motor/tearing it down/sending it off to be rebuilt yourself or having a shop do all the work? Likewise would you be pulling the motor and swapping with a good unit yourself? Also long term do you want to boost this thing/NA build that could mean some goodies find there way in to the refresh or do you just want a stock Coyote.

Sorry to hear about your luck though.

Honestly I would be not be attempting this work myself. I want someone to just drop the K member, oil pan, and try and replace all 8 rod bearings with new ones and possibly wet sand the crank as a poor man's repair. I want to get rid of the car. Not happy how it just let go after 2000km.

[paradigm]

Howdy Mr, sorry to hear your having so much trouble. Yes still wrenching ever day.
Regardless of miles, doing partial rebuild on a Modular engine seldom if ever works out in the long run. Full rebuild is pricey but at least you'd know exactly what you have. Next best option, find yourself a low mileage used one and have it installed. Selling as is, most times peeps take what it would sell for undamaged then deduct the cost of a used engine and labor n post it on up. Seldom if ever will it bring that much money. After all, you know condition of rest of the car, someone unable to properly road test does not.
Need any advice or help with the decision, feel free to message.

Yeah I was thinking it was better to just repair the bottom end (I am really praying it is just the rod bearings and not requiring a new crank, etc.). I figured it is better to spend upfront so that I can have an easier time to re-sell it rather than try and sell it as-is.

Any idea what I am looking at in terms of labor alone to replace the rod bearings? Is replacing the crank a lot more work whiles in there? Can this be done by dropping the K member or does the engine have to come out to do this bottom end repair?