Question re: Battery Tender Usage

[Gr8Stang]

I have a fresh new battery in the Shelby after the previous one started to fail.

My question is: Do I just disconnect the negative side cable (has a quick disconnect feature) and leave it till early spring and then connect up the battery tender to top up the charge, OR do I put the Genius (brand) Battery Tender on it as soon as I put it away for the winter and let it run till its ready to go back on the road?

I imagine that the amount (cost) of hydro used to keep a battery healthy via a tender is low.....but also know, that it won't take long to get it back to full charge if I just let it run a day or two before I'm ready to pull the car out of storage.

What I don't know is whether the battery prefers being trickled charged constantly over the winter.....or can simply be re-charged over a couple of days and be no worse for the wear....especially given its a new battery?

[Snaketamer]

I disconnect the battery and hook up the charger with float feature. Now, I plug the charger into a timer and run it for a few hours once a week. Seemed to do the trick for me.

[Screw]

Good question

[mavrrrick]

I just hook tender up, leave battery connected. Unplug in spring and ready to go....have permanent connection under hood, plug and play.

[Scrape]

I do what mavrrrick does as well. Most battery tenders only trickles when the battery calls for it.

[mavrrrick]

I believe, correct me if I'm wrong, disconnecting battery also resets computer and has to relearn again?

[Scrape]

Indeed it does. In some cars with multiple computers they need to go back to the dealer to be re-programmed/rebooted.


I believe, correct me if I'm wrong, disconnecting battery also resets computer and has to relearn again?

[True Blue]

I pull the battery, place it in the basement. Every 2 weeks or so put it on a battery tender to top it off, then repeat.

[Stephen06GT]

I just hook tender up, leave battery connected. Unplug in spring and ready to go....have permanent connection under hood, plug and play.

Pretty much the same for me, except without the permanent connection part.

[ZR]

Disconnecting battery from your ride eliminates the chance of fire after a critter sets up house n chows down on a few wires. Once reconnected, most run just fine from second one while others take being fully warmed up and driven at least a short distance to settle down. Either way, not a big deal, especially since we no longer need to worry about monitors staying ready for a spring e test.

[Screw]

There was a FB post from Ont Mustang Club where a tender caused a fire in the garage

[Screw]

Duplicate idfk why

[ZR]

I can't get comfortable with hook it on and forget about it, yes in spite of thats exactly how they say it can be used. Much prefer to put on once or twice a month when I'm in a position to monitor then disconnect till next time.
As for one catching fire, if left in the car, possible critters chewed it's wires, just as possible battery had an issue n shorted it out causing a fire.

[Screw]

Safe route better imo monitored

[Gr8Stang]

Thanks for all the input guys. Think I'm going to see if I can contact the tender mfg. and get their perspective on the use of their product/affect on battery life. I'll drop a note back in here on what they have to say.

[Gr8Stang]

FWIW, here's the info. I got from the NOCO Genius website on maintaining batteries. Sounds like the preferred method (to extend overall battery life) is to maintain the battery by keeping the trickle charge happening while the car is not running/in storage. I use their G3500 model.

https://no.co/maintaining-batteries

[allicedout]

Pretty much the same for me, except without the permanent connection part.

Ditto... I also take a few extra precautions to make sure no critters get in.

[Spock]

batteries that have been cycled from dead & back repeatedly tend to fail early, keeping it charged extends its life

[Black Sheep]

I always use tenders on all my battery start units.
I have a 12 year old battery that still works fine In my cobra. Also have a 11 year old battery in my ATV that still works fine...for now.
Last battery I had to change was a 10 year old one in my FGT. I didn’t want to take a chance past that point as some reported gauge failures where old batteries could have caused/ be the issue.

[Mustang4]

I like idea of putting it on, monitoring it, then taking it off on a regular basis. That way I know if things are working or going wrong.

[Spock]

If the car goes to sleep properly it will draw less than 50ma, That's the general maximum draw spec .From experience I have seen about 35ma on vehicles with a ton of modules like Lincolns after they go to sleep. Others like Mustangs are below 22ma
A tender of about 1 amp or more should be more than enough for a car that goes to sleep properly

[Gr8Stang]

from my research this charger is the one to get. Couple with a battery monitor (BMS) and it's fire and forget.

https://www.amazon.ca/OptiMATE-TM-251-battery-charger-batteries/dp/B01EV1CTTI

Some poor customer reviews.....units died and/or were DOA?