Wheel torque.

[ZR]

So another season of pulling snow tires off to install summer wheels is in full swing. As has become all too common, vehicle in today for brakes just had it's snows pulled off last Friday at another shop and summer wheels installed. First nut, barely came off with a 750ft lb+ impact gun, next one saw the stud break clean off, other three ridiculously tight but at least didn't break. Checked the other three wheels, not as tight but clearly none torqued to spec. Just as ridiculous, substantial build up of corrosion on the backside of the alum wheels plus similar build up of rust on the rotor faces where the wheels need to sit flat. Car, accident looking for a place to happen. Just as shitty, wheels took pulling on with the lugs to get them to slide over the hubs left them so tight (even with nuts off) that it took one hell of a smack from the backside to remove them, awesome if you had a flat out on the road. No excuse possible for a pro, if you change the wheels over yourself, need to pay attention to the above and always always always torque properly. When installing nuts, snug up in correct pattern with a 3/8 ratchet and socket to ensure the wheel is squarely on the hub and sitting dead nuts flat. When it's time to torque, first lug, do not bring up to full torque, make full torque the second or third one in the pattern then make a second full circle. Yes pattern you use is equally as important.
Be safe.

[Old Fart]

This frustrates me as well. No reason for them to over-torque the nuts. I do the change-overs myself. In addition to what you wrote, I also clean the back side of the wheel and brake drums/rotor face with a brass wire brush and make sure there is no corrosion. Then I add a small amount of anti-seize compound to the mating area of the wheel. Works great for me.

[ZR]

We use copper anti seize.
Back side of the wheel / mounting face of rotors is what I mentioned had substantial build up on both.


https://nebula.wsimg.com/7716729e91414022205a02c44d3c976a?AccessKeyId=DF394 15029DD3D2CF62B&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

[ZR]

We are also seeing a number of cheap wheels the don't mount properly or have defects. Most common, an approx 1/8" deep by approx inch in diameter groove cut out of the backside around wheel mounting holes. Awesome when you consider how far the wheel needs to flex / bend to allow it's surface to contact the mounting face and achieve proper torque (most simply will not snug up properly). Keep in mind, these wheels are usually cast in gosh knows where to gosh knows what quality standards.


https://i.ytimg.com/vi/6CyEUaekLdw/hqdefault.jpg

[Ponyryd]

I always give a quick shot of fluid-film around the hub, I can tell when I do this the next time the car is in, the wheel comes off no problem and there is still some residue there.
Keep in mind as well not to use any lubricant on the studs as it can cause improper torque, if the studs are rusty clean them with a wire brush.

[ZR]

Interesting lil blerb I recently came across, agree with poster. Yet to ever see an issue with lubed hub and threads, seen countless problems without. Few grasp the fact, torque is A about making sure nuts are tight enough but more importantly, about making sure there is uniform clamping force holding both the rim and rotor / brake drum securely and evenly in place. With the ridiculous amount of salt n brine on the roads these days, it's become a must have practice even on parts you'd once upon a time used loc tite.


This subject comes up from time to time. And usually when it does, it falls into the same rabbit hole. Perhaps that is because it never seems to be examined from a common sense, practical standpoint. Everyone always seems to be too quick to pull out their engineering manuals. First off, let's examine the 2 biggest examples that come up against this practice. First is that the use of anti seize products on wheel studs will facilitate the loosening of the wheel nuts attached to them over time. The second is that the use of anti seize will cause over torqueing of the studs themselves. Thereby weakening and or stretching them, to the point of outright breaking them off.

Let's first look at number 1. If the use of the anti seize products would in itself cause the studs to become loose over time, it only stands to reason it would do much the same in most all other threaded applications it was used in. We know for certain that is not the case. Anti seize is used in several other automotive applications without any loosening of bolts or nuts it was applied to over time. Cylinder head bolts. Water pump mounting bolts. Spark plugs, and shock absorber studs and nuts, just to name a few. Anti seize is not only recommended in many of these applications, in many cases it is a must to avoid broken bolts in the future when they are removed.

Now let's examine number 2. In all forms of fastening with threaded nuts and bolts, a lubricated thread will require less torque to achieve the same clamping force, (or "pull" on the stud or bolt), as the same fastener that is used dry. So in this regard the statement is true. The same foot pounds of torque applied to a lubricated thread will achieve a greater amount of stress on the bolt or stud, than the same torque applied to a dry threaded fastener of the same size and type.

This additional force in the case of most automotive wheel studs is around 20% to 30%. So when anti seize is applied, all that is required is to apply around 25% LESS torque to accomplish the same task. The nut will not come loose. Nor will it be subjected to any additional stress. For example, if a dry wheel nut is rated to be torqued at 100 ft. lbs. when torqued dry. Then simply reduce the torque to 75 to 80 ft. lbs. if that stud has anti seize applied to it. Proper torque is what keeps nuts and bolts properly tightened..... NOT rusty, dry threads.

So in conclusion there is absolutely nothing "wrong" with using anti seize on lug nuts and studs. Any more than it is in other applications. It will not only transfer torque easier. It will also prevent rust and corrosion of the threads. And by doing so will facilitate the easy removal of said wheel nuts when the time comes. Without heavy, unnecessary torque that very well might cause the stud to snap off.

I have used anti seize on all of my vehicles wheel lugs and studs for the last 50 years. And I have NEVER had a wheel stud break. Or a wheel nut come loose... EVER. Nor have I ever heard of one doing so. With that said, I have seen on several occasions, studs break off from being frozen, rusty, and corroded. So in closing I will say I will continue this practice, simply because I have never seen, or come across a situation that has shown me it would be better to not.

[hammerhead]

I've been working with truck wheels for over twenty years - most tire guys as they are called in trucking don't give a rats ass about wheel torque. Most times they are over tight because 1" drive impact gun makes 1200 ft. pds of torque and the wheel only needs to be between 450-500. I never add any type of lube to studs. Reasons: any spray type lube greatly over torques the nut - i don't concern myself too much with the stud breaking but getting the nuts off afterwards is a bitch if tightened with the full 1200 pd. force. The gun does not make the same torque in reverse - the hammer in the gun gets damaged from the pounding and i've seen 33 mil sockets fly apart from the extreme pounding the 1' drive impact gun can give. Second most of my work and many truck tires are change outdoor - in extreme cold thin spray lube freezes and may not torque to speck - i see this especially with anti-seize it gets very thick when frozen especially if it is just globed on also attracts dirt which also thickens it over time and is a problem for the next guy who may have to do the tire change. This practice will not allow all four hub faces on a tandem wheel secure properly and come loose. I don't really see the need for it on cars with the 90 ft pds needed but it is important to ensure all hub faces are are clean and even surfaces to secure evenly, but i don't see using lube as being a big issue either. I also recommend doing it by hand opposed to power tools it's not that difficult to achieve 90 ft. pounds.

[Mellow Yellow]

Was changing the winters to summers on the Fusion Saturday. It has those decorative lug nuts with the thin metal covering, Well at least one of the coverings were rounded or not capable of having a socket properly fit. Had to get it off with an air chisel. Part of the reason was over torquing; last time I had the summer to winter changeover done by the dealer. I wound up buying new log nuts.


One time we were going to work on my sons brakes, I had to use a six foot section of pipe to break the lugs loose on a Cobalt! Would never have been able to change a tire on the road.


BTW how do you know what the recommended torque is. I assume different from Mustang to Fusion to F150

[ZR]

On a 1/2" stud, 90 - 95lbs.
If your going to the track, suggest only rechecking after the wheels have cooled down, never smokin hot.
Tin covered wheel nuts, bane of mine and everyone else that works on vehicles existence. Moisture / salt gets under the cover and rusts the steel nut underneath which in turn expands the cover either splitting it or making it impossible to get a socket on properly.

[Snaketamer]

So this guys article recommends 25% lest torque on lugs/studs with anti-seize(my F150 req'd 150ft/bls would be 115ft/lbs?)....should I loosen them?
I hate those tin covered lugs also...only reason I haven't changed then on the truck is because I use breaker bar/torque wrench(no impact) and don't run them in the winter. My son's G6 lugs gave me fits....

[Old Fart]

BTW how do you know what the recommended torque is. I assume different from Mustang to Fusion to F150

Owner's manual usually has the torque value.

[mavrrrick]

Or just google it.

[hammerhead]

So this guys article recommends 25% lest torque on lugs/studs with anti-seize(my F150 req'd 150ft/bls would be 115ft/lbs?)....should I loosen them?
I hate those tin covered lugs also...only reason I haven't changed then on the truck is because I use breaker bar/torque wrench(no impact) and don't run them in the winter. My son's G6 lugs gave me fits....

Yes have that with some of the kid cars - they would break them off inexperience and power tools lol I find too the metal isn't what it use to be - I have a hell of a time with the original fasters on my daughters 9 year old Santa Fa - not just wheel nuts all fasteners related to the drive line and exposure to the elements from wheel nuts to bearing fasteners related licenses On my old cars some as old as forty years fasteners come off no problem with very little rust and corrosion.

[Styrofoam04]

Copper anti seize...huh, now I know.

I've never had an issue removing rims before, but since buying this SUV off a coworker ... every year I have troubles.
Its not as bad as it was when I first got it 3 seasons ago. but its still a bit of effort.

So He had 2 sets of tires and rims. He had the winter tires on steelies on the SUV. I didn't think of it at the time I bought it, but looking back he prolly had those steelies on for a few seasons.

I take her home and I try to switch the rims but all 4 steel rims are rusted solid to the hub! The lug nuts came off normally. but no matter what I did the wheel would not come off! I tried tugging, kicking, and pleading with it...
I tried banging it with any I could think of.. nothing
Then torqued it and tried the next one , and the next... they just would not come off!

After a call to my father, he told me to jack it up and losen the lugs aboot 2-4mm then lower the jack. The weight should cause it to "pop" lose... nope!
I tried it twice...nope!!
I tried jumping in and turing the wheel back and forth... Nope!!!
I tried swearing and banging my head on the steering wheel... Nope!!!

Then I said Fuck it!!! I turned the ignition and pulled out of the driveway. I got around the corner and "pop"

I had to do each one like that.

I wire brushed as much as I could but I wasn't sure what I could put on it, so I carefully put on some white grease.
They still get stuck but a bang or two usually pops them off.

I will have to pick up some of that magic elixir you call anti seize

Cheers

[ZR]

Also overlooked, wash your winter wheels spotlessly clean before storing for the summer. Amazing how much they corrode / rust sitting all summer with salt on em.

[RedSN]

I tried swearing and banging my head on the steering wheel... Nope!!!
Very odd. Swearing and banging head generally works for me.
Maybe you weren’t using enough volume?

[Ponyryd]

We are also seeing a number of cheap wheels the don't mount properly or have defects. Most common, an approx 1/8" deep by approx inch in diameter groove cut out of the backside around wheel mounting holes. Awesome when you consider how far the wheel needs to flex / bend to allow it's surface to contact the mounting face and achieve proper torque (most simply will not snug up properly). Keep in mind, these wheels are usually cast in gosh knows where to gosh knows what quality standards.


https://i.ytimg.com/vi/6CyEUaekLdw/hqdefault.jpg

Ive seen this as well on aftermarket wheels, and even on Ram 1500 wheels, actually I have a 16 Limited in my bay right now with the fancy wheels and it has the recesses. Never had a problem or seen it as a problem, but I agree it seems like a dumb thing to do.

With regard to lubricating the studs-I’ll agree to disagree, but I hate anti-seize on studs, personally.

[LX89]

I've dealt with Kipling Tire in the past and they tighten lug nuts by hand with a torque wrench.

When I first noticed them doing this I said to the owner,"you guys use a torque wrench"?
He said,"yeah,what you think this is Canadian Tire",lol.

So glad they use a torque wrench instead of blasting them on with an impact.

[Ponyryd]

^I start with a torque stick, then follow with torque wrench. Probably close to half the guys at my work don’t use a torque wrench.

[Old Fart]

I've dealt with Kipling Tire in the past and they tighten lug nuts by hand with a torque wrench.

When I first noticed them doing this I said to the owner,"you guys use a torque wrench"?
He said,"yeah,what you think this is Canadian Tire",lol.

So glad they use a torque wrench instead of blasting them on with an impact.

Funny, up here it's the Canadian Tire that used a torque wrench correctly and the Goodyear tire shop using the wrench after the impact!

[ZR]

This is the kind of thing that happens when surfaces are not properly cleaned and or wheel not torqued. Once on properly, chances of a wheel coming off under normal conditions is zero.


A driver is in serious condition after a wheel flew off a SUV and struck a vehicle on a busy Ontario highway.
Ontario Provincial Police say the front left wheel came off a SUV travelling south on Highway 400 Saturday morning near the town of Innisfil, Ont., which is located about 88 km north of Toronto.


For more on this story visit CTV Toronto (https://toronto.ctvnews.ca/nb-hwy-400-closed-near-innisfil-after-wheel-flys-off-suv-hits-another-vehicle-1.4428377)

PHOTOS


https://www.ctvnews.ca/polopoly_fs/1.4428441.1558203917!/httpImage/image.jpg_gen/derivatives/landscape_225/image.jpg (https://www.ctvnews.ca/polopoly_fs/1.4428441.1558203917!/httpImage/image.jpg_gen/derivatives/landscape_960/image.jpg)

One person was airlifted to hospital after a wheel struck a vehicle on a busy Ontario highway on Saturday, May 18, 2019. (OPP_HSD/ Twitter)



According to police, the wheel went flying into the northbound lanes of the highway and struck a car. The driver, a man in his 20s, suffered serious injuries and was airlifted to Sunnybrook Hospital.

[stangstevers]

I usually follow factory spec for torquing lug nuts. Clean the hubs and lugs... Some anti-seize lube around the hub (not a lot)... boom never had an issue.

Don't get me started with "mechanics" who overtighten oil pan drain plugs.

[ZR]

While I'm sure at least some mechanics have been guilty, bulk of the ones we see come out of hurry lubes done by peeps with little to no real training. Flip side to that, only a handful of consumers want to pay what it would cost for a competent / paid what he or she's worth person to do the job nor do they want to wait more than a few minutes for it to be done. What really kills me, person that shops for the bargain basement priced oil n filter change, same one that gets smoked for a new cabin filter, air filter and a host of other services they don't need (any very possible pay for but don't receive) but hey the oil change itself was cheap.

[CleopatraWampler]

That’s why I do lots of care for my car wheels because they perform the most robust job all day. Only a few days ago, after losing the lug nuts and removing the wheel from the tyre, I washed it. Then, I applied wax/grease remover to clean it from grease. However, keep in mind, it should be a nonpolar solvent. Now, it turns to apply paint, but I am confused between these best spray paints ( https://carlifeguru.com/best-spray-paint-for-wheels ) and willing to go with PlastiKote 620. But, I am not sure either it will give required protection against rust and other issues.

Can you guys suggest an excellent paint spray at a reasonable price?

[hammerhead]

That’s why I do lots of care for my car wheels because they perform the most robust job all day. Only a few days ago, after losing the lug nuts and removing the wheel from the tyre, I washed it. Then, I applied wax/grease remover to clean it from grease. However, keep in mind, it should be a nonpolar solvent. Now, it turns to apply paint, but I am confused between these best spray paints ( https://carlifeguru.com/best-spray-paint-for-wheels ) and willing to go with PlastiKote 620. But, I am not sure either it will give required protection against rust and other issues.

Can you guys suggest an excellent paint spray at a reasonable price?

Buy gas at Canadian Tire gas bar and save up the Canadian Tire money then go to Canadian Tire Store and buy Canadian Tire Brand spray paint....thats what i do

[Old Fart]

^^^but he's in Florida!

[CleopatraWampler]

Yes, you are right. Better to tell me any online but international store. I didn't find any outlet of Canadian Tire Store here.

[hammerhead]

Doh! :facepalm:

[ZR]

No Canadian Tire in Florida, the nerve!!!
Worth mentioning again though, peeps need to take wheel torque way more seriously. Since original post, seen at least a half dozen rides missing a wheel on the side of 400 / 401 or 404.

[hammerhead]

Yes, you are right. Better to tell me any online but international store. I didn't find any outlet of Canadian Tire Store here.

That's too bad its a great store - they have stickers - muffler cement - fishing rods - and frying pans - cashiers with black yoga pants....

[ZR]

+ from time to time, blinker fluid goes on sale.................... right next to the pots and pans.

[ZR]

So it's that time of the year, good idea to do a quickie read through so your not one of those sitting at the side of the road on 3 wheels.................... or worse.
Not changing over the wheels n tires yourself, make double sure your installer does the job correctly and will be torquing the wheels.

[Snaketamer]

Did my switch over on both vehicles last week. Was at the hobby garage and the guy beside me had an older escape on the lift. He said he had just bought it for $400 bucks and was checking it out... ie... suspension/brakes and so on. When he was putting the tires back on, all I could hear was the 'dugga dugga' of the impact. :facepalm: Sure enough, he snapped one of the studs clean off. I just shake my head. The shop has a full compliment of tools including torque sticks and torque wrench.
Now this guy heads out on the public roads and is a menace to safety.

[ZR]

^ Many shops still do the same, no excuse.

[hsousa88]

^ Many shops still do the same, no excuse.

Have yet to see a shop (besides you) torque wheels. It’s a shame. Just swapped the wifeys wheels.. need to buy one.

[mavrrrick]

Always torque them... especially if doing someone else’s car. I show them that way my ass is covered. Tell them come back in 2 weeks for re-torque to be safe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ponyryd]

^No need for a recheck, but that’s your call ;) on new aluminum wheels it’s a good idea, but still not really needed.

[Mellow Yellow]

Was changing the winters to summers on the Fusion Saturday. It has those decorative lug nuts with the thin metal covering, Well at least one of the coverings were rounded or not capable of having a socket properly fit. Had to get it off with an air chisel. Part of the reason was over torquing; last time I had the summer to winter changeover done by the dealer. I wound up buying new log nuts.


One time we were going to work on my sons brakes, I had to use a six foot section of pipe to break the lugs loose on a Cobalt! Would never have been able to change a tire on the road.


BTW how do you know what the recommended torque is. I assume different from Mustang to Fusion to F150

So fast forward to yesterday. The Fusion went in for some brake and suspension work a few months ago. Of course, the wheels needed to be removed and replaced.

FUCK I'm sore. Every fucking lug nut needed a 4 foot breaker bar to loosen them!!! Then (not their fault, unless there is an anti seize available) three of the rims need a piece of wood and a sledge hammer (5lb) to get them to come off........oh did I mention my air compressor decided to give up the ghost after one change.

I'm getting too old for this shit.

Rant over

[Ponyryd]

So fast forward to yesterday. The Fusion went in for some brake and suspension work a few months ago. Of course, the wheels needed to be removed and replaced.

FUCK I'm sore. Every fucking lug nut needed a 4 foot breaker bar to loosen them!!! Then (not their fault, unless there is an anti seize available) three of the rims need a piece of wood and a sledge hammer (5lb) to get them to come off........oh did I mention my air compressor decided to give up the ghost after one change.

I'm getting too old for this shit.

Rant over

I don’t use anti-seize, especially on lugs, but on everything I have the wheels off of (that sees winter use), I spray the hub with fluid film, any I’ve seen come back always come right off with minimal effort.

[ZR]

So fast forward to yesterday. The Fusion went in for some brake and suspension work a few months ago. Of course, the wheels needed to be removed and replaced.

FUCK I'm sore. Every fucking lug nut needed a 4 foot breaker bar to loosen them!!! Then (not their fault, unless there is an anti seize available) three of the rims need a piece of wood and a sledge hammer (5lb) to get them to come off........oh did I mention my air compressor decided to give up the ghost after one change.

I'm getting too old for this shit.

Rant over

Both are 100% their fault. When off, both hubs and backside of the rims should be cleaned and smeared with never seize. We have a dedicated angle grinder with a knotted wire wheel for exactly that kinda stuff, if it won't reach, assortment of small wire wheels and sanding drums for the drill or by hand with a wire brush.

[Snaketamer]

Round two....tonight...
Went back up the the hobby garage to do an oil change on the wife's car. Guy on the hoist beside me is doing an oil change on his son's chevy truck. I can hear him struggling and after a while he tells me his son had put the oil filter on so tight, he can't get it off. Then, the steward tells me, he had be tighten the filter instead of loosening it. By this time, it's mangled and he's cut his hand. He ended up having to chisel it off. Lefty Loosey...Righty Tighty

I had to use a small breaker bar on the oil drain plug...The shop musta used an impact....lol

[ZR]

It's that time of the year again, good idea to start on page one and refresh your tire changing / wheel torquing skillz.
As per the norm, far too many wheels flying off after spring / fall change overs, with proper care, none will come off.

[ZR]

Anyone here in Ford engineering able to comment on why Fords moved to 150lb plus on some of their wheel nuts?
The instances of damaged nuts, damaged studs n nuts that won't come off is a growing problem especially since they added fuel to the fire by going away from chrome nuts to steel nuts with tin covers.

[1BAD92LX]

Did the thread pitch change?

[ZR]

Not positive but contact area on the nut taper is substantially larger.
Had a 2019 Edge in a few weeks ago, all nuts screwed (heads all partially stripped / mutilated) by last place to have em off. Took north of an hour to get the messed up nutz off plus had to replace every one of em.

[1BAD92LX]

Replaced all wheel nuts on my truck for the same reason. I’m lucky I see 95% one peice style nuts at work

[ZR]

Bet they all sell a bunch of wheel nuts these days for exactly that reason.

[Snaketamer]

I have the ford tin wrapped nuts on my '14 F150. So far so good because I don't use the impact on them. Only a breaker bar and torque wrench. Open end steel lugs for the winter.
My son's old G6 had the tin wrapped nuts and I cursed those facking pieces of crap!

[Scrape]

Heard about that story. What a shit show that was. I don’t know what is going on with Ford with these tin wrapped nuts and high torque values but not a fan of those nuts at all. F’in garbage!
Not positive but contact area on the nut taper is substantially larger.
Had a 2019 Edge in a few weeks ago, all nuts screwed (heads all partially stripped / mutilated) by last place to have em off. Took north of an hour to get the messed up nutz off plus had to replace every one of em.

[hsousa88]

Whoever the fuck worked on my GFs accord before we purchased it, fack you.

Every. Single. Wheel stud. Is fucked.

EVERY SINGLE ONE.

[ZR]

Hugo, we are seeing it more n more.
Add to that shops still not using a torque wrench to install nuts. Cool when you go to spin it off and the stud breaks or threads gather.

[bbriann]

I have about 550 ftlbs of rear torque...but my stock rims are 100 ftlbs and Prostar track rims are 80 ftlbs torque. 3 inch long wheel studs takes quite a few turns...

[hammerhead]

21133

Had a chat this am with the owner of this pickup...see anything wrong cause they didn't....lol asked when the wheel was put on and they replied February. I gave them a little advice (for free) and they drove away. hahaha so if you see a blue baby ram steer clear and check your wheel nuts once in a while....

[Stephen06GT]

21133

Had a chat this am with the owner of this pickup...see anything wrong cause they didn't....lol asked when the wheel was put on and they replied February. I gave them a little advice (for free) and they drove away. hahaha so if you see a blue baby ram steer clear and check your wheel nuts once in a while....

No worries Hammer, the other three lug nuts are torqued to 200lb.ft. to compensate for the missing ones. ;)

[Zippy]

Impressive.

[ZR]

Not all that surprised.
Peeps still think wheels come loose, never tightened properly in the first place is more like it.

[hammerhead]

it's lose - I even shook it for them and watched it wobble when they drove off....lol maybe they're Flinstone tires...the other three holes are extremely elongated - just a matter of time before the remaining three are sheared off...

[Uncle Buck]

There should be a law against stupid

[redo75]

Torquing clean and dry wheel nuts is called dry torque.
Torquing lubed or adding anti-seize on wheel nuts is called wet torque.
Do a search for info on wheel nuts torquing, may surprise you.

[RedSN]

^^^interesting.

While the torque force is the same, adding a lubricant to the threads will increase the tensile force in the fastener. Only a problem is the tensile resistance of the fastener is exceeded.

So torque specs should really be given in both “dry” and “wet” values if it is critical.


That said.... I have always used a bit of anti seize on my wheel studs, torqued to (dry?) spec, and never broken or even yielded a stud at extreme (track) duty.

[hammerhead]

Been working in the trucking industry for over twenty years (starting to sound like a driver now, "don't tell me how to drive I've been doin this for twenty years....lol) but I've seen many ten hole 22" and 24" wheels come off - hub faces are important - wheels with pitted and less then smooth hub faces have far less clamping force at 500 ft. pounds - the wheels on this little dodge where interesting to me- although I didn't get to remove it only a small area of the wheels hub face around the stud hole was making contact with the hub or drum - when a wheel gets lose like this the damage is severe and it is hard to determine the cause. What was interesting to me was it was put on in February so it was quite some time before it came lose - usually if a wheel is installed incorrectly it will come off within a hundred miles of leaving the shop - in the trucking industry tire installers always put on the bill to "retorque" after 100k - it is sort of installer protection. Also important to ten hole wheels is the torques sequence and reaching the 500pound wheel torque for a ten hole hub pilot wheel on a truck. (a range is given for the torque spec. 500 is a good guide line) Also lubing the nuts as mention does increase the torque spec by a substantial margin - I'm not sure using a lower torques spec would be a good idea on a wet nut and stud - if the lube runs out over time from the threads and the stud and nut are now dry they may be now lose (just my thinking) - It's also interesting with old motorcycle's with ten hole chain sprockets - a lot of people will use lock tite to hold the sprocket to the hub because of bad experiences - I've always used the same torque sequence used on a ten hole 22" wheel and never had an issue (just a thought) my brain feels alive today....lol day dreamer ok back to work!

[hammerhead]

21149

21150

I found some old pics from a few winters ago - this hub had two new tires installed in Chicago before it returned to the yard, on the side of the road in the middle of a massive snow storm that stretched from here to Chicago and was bitterly cold. Although it was about -20 that morning I was excited to see this, (I don't get out much....lol) the early stages of two lose wheels. The shinny marks on the wheel studs are caused from the wheels banging back and fourth on the stud and would eventually sheer the studs off. Two grooves can be seen on the hub pilots from the wheels that look machined and natural. I really don't envy truck drivers when the weather is like this and they drive through the night in it. Sometimes these storms are with them for the complete duration.

[redo75]

Need to add to the wet / dry torque story.
There is science behind everything in this world, but there is a seat - of - your - pants knowledge application too.
I wet torque my wheels for 20+ years and had no problem. But...
Had one tire replaced a few weeks ago on my wife's car. Tire replacer?? freaked out. He had to get a cleaner to wash inside wheel, bolts and nuts, blow off with air and again clean all with brake cleaner before dry torquing. Didn't matter to them the young kid scraped some paint of al wheel when installing that bothered me me more than wet/drt torque.
Had to do it there way or drive home on three wheels.
None of tires have fallen off so who is right?

[hammerhead]

Need to add to the wet / dry torque story.
There is science behind everything in this world, but there is a seat - of - your - pants knowledge application too.
I wet torque my wheels for 20+ years and had no problem. But...
Had one tire replaced a few weeks ago on my wife's car. Tire replacer?? freaked out. He had to get a cleaner to wash inside wheel, bolts and nuts, blow off with air and again clean all with brake cleaner before dry torquing. Didn't matter to them the young kid scraped some paint of al wheel when installing that bothered me me more than wet/drt torque.
Had to do it there way or drive home on three wheels.
None of tires have fallen off so who is right?

wet torque is usually too tight especially if you use some sort of impact tool. Overtightened too much could damage the studs, nuts , even the wheel itself. - if you install nuts and wet torque by hand you probably don't risk damage to anything - I think people in the profession now, techs are trained to not wet torque there's a lot of liability involved in wheel changes if something should go wrong

[Zippy]

I've been working for my dad since I was 10. The first job he taught me was how to properly install a wheel.
I'm now 25, I've torqued a million sets of wheels, not once has one fallen off, or been hard to take off years down the road.
It's a freaking wheel... don't over complicate something so simple.

[LX89]

21133

Had a chat this am with the owner of this pickup...see anything wrong cause they didn't....lol asked when the wheel was put on and they replied February. I gave them a little advice (for free) and they drove away. hahaha so if you see a blue baby ram steer clear and check your wheel nuts once in a while....

Several years ago I was riding my bike along Lakeshore around the Boulevard Club and some guy going east in a Chrysler mini van had a rear passenger side wheel that was so loose you could see it wobble bigtime as well as making one hell of a loud noise.
I stopped the bike and watched to see if it was going to come off before going out of my view.It didn't.

I thought,how could that idiot not hear that loud banging inside the vehicle or feel the wobble.

[ZR]

Pic from the news today, pay special attention if your doing your summer wheel changeover.

https://www.cp24.com/polopoly_fs/1.5368268!/httpImage/image.jpg_gen/derivatives/landscape_620/image.jpg

[bbriann]

I changed total 5 sets wheels a week ago. Got everyone to retorque their wheels after couple days except my own...yesterday leaving town i had to return home to retorque my own...they were loosen up and rub on brakes...same thing last year...hmmm

[ZR]

We spend whatever time it takes cleaning hubs / hub faces / back side of wheels themselves to make sure they go on as square as possible.
Good chance thats why yours don't stay tight the first go round.

[Styrofoam04]

The wife saw this this morning and made me go check the torque on the SUV. I had new rubber put on them too. so it was a good idea

[Stephen06GT]

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSMWm4bdvEfdPnT3tg2Bws1LvUmiBhpZ U5j9g&usqp=CAU