creaky notch....

[Henley1]

hey guys. looking for some advice. just did wilwoods. 31 spline. rims /tires. strange 10 way f/r. lowering springs f/r. new isolators. ford racing a arms. tie rods. our upper and lowers. anyway car creaks like crazy. sounds like from both front and rear. I went thru everything. guys at dasilva did. said all is tight or looks fine. car is a orginal paint clean car. so don't think it's rotting away type thing.. but what should I look at nxt it re check. there's no way the car should sound like a old lumber truck..

[ZR]

Depending on parts used / installation procedure, no it should not.
Same question as above + was all final tightened at ride height?
List of parts used?

[Ponyryd]

^What they said.

[Stephen06GT]

Subframe connectors in the car? Rubber, urethane, or rod end mounts?

[Laffs]

Do you mean UPR upper and lowers? If so mine creaked like a bitch. Replacing the factory bolts that had some surface rust with brand new ones helpe a bit, as does keeping them lubricated.

[ZR]

Stock uppers or nothing. JMO

[Henley1]

yes. urathane. yes all were torqued to 95 if I remember with suspension loaded.

[ZR]

Suggest you remove uppers / replace with set from either Ford Racing or 99up GT. Bind is not your chassis best friend.

[Laffs]

Stock uppers or nothing. JMO

Lesson learned, rod end control arms have no business in a street car.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

I have rod end ones in mine now, I needed adjustibility to correct pinion and I know not to use Poly on the uppers. Whats wrong with rod ends? They should cause 0 bind from what I understand.

[ZR]

Rod end style still cause binding but if needed to correct pinion angle you don't have much choice.

[ZR]

BMR and a couple of others now offer an adjustable lower.

[Slick_89_Hatch]

If I ever go coilover in the rear ill look at changing the set up perhaps.

[Laffs]

I have rod end ones in mine now, I needed adjustibility to correct pinion and I know not to use Poly on the uppers. Whats wrong with rod ends? They should cause 0 bind from what I understand.

That was the reason for mine as well (too many lows dialed up on the suspension) but the binding is there whether you hear it or not. My (now) massively reinforced torque boxes are a testament to what bind can do.

[Henley1]

Suggest you remove uppers / replace with set from either Ford Racing or 99up GT. Bind is not your chassis best friend.

so your saying the upr upper and lower is a bad combo? not being rude , just learning as I go . thx

[Slick_89_Hatch]

so your saying the upr upper and lower is a bad combo? not being rude , just learning as I go . thx

Yes because having such stiff arms all with poly bushings will cause binding and could tear and a control arm mount. Better to be safe than sorry and try to get some 99+ GT uppers. They have a stiffer rubber bushing than the 98 and older. But if budget is an issue, some 98 and older will work just fine for now.

[RedSN]

It's only a bad combo because they utilize stiff urethane in all of the bushings.

The triangulated 4-link rear suspension inherently has bind in it. Ford alleviated this bind by allowing some flexibility in the soft rubber bushings.
Some good reading here:
https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Rear-Suspension-Tech-C590.aspx

[Ponyryd]

so your saying the upr upper and lower is a bad combo? not being rude , just learning as I go . thx

Yes, causes bind. Best to use stock uppers as previously mentioned, however, you can run a three-link or torque arm if you prefer, either eliminates bind.

[ZR]

Torque arm and panhard = game changer.

[Henley1]

ok. I've been reserching more. all makes sense. all tho the guys at dasilva have been/are great. they make a solid argument as to why the upper/lower upr is the way to go. . it's a nice car, I don't to screw up a mount. better to reinforce while here too?

[Henley1]

also as winter rounds the corner. looking at tubular front ends. advice on direction?

[ZR]

Can't add anything to the control arm discussion beyond what I've already said.
As for K members, to me, none come anywhere close to the quality and benefits of Maximum Motorsports.

[Henley1]

yes was looking at them as I'm going mm caster camber plates. .

[Ponyryd]

+1 on MM k-member, and with regards to the torque boxes, if you’re drag racing, especially with any power, and most especially with slicks, yes.

[hammerhead]

I would double check just to make sure the springs have isolators at the top if you think the noise in front and rear - looks like a solid setup some chassis reinforcement may be needed I cant really see binding being the issue but it is a more race handling then comfort product - maybe look into a panhard, bigger sway bars, or a watts link...

[ZR]

When you have upper / lower arms that don't move in the same arc and you take away the give (rubber bushing), something is going to fail. All too easy to mistake good handling (on smooth roads only) for a rear suspension bound up.

[hammerhead]

yes I agree one change leads to another the unknown is how many changes have been made beside what's been mentioned - personally I would eliminate the upper rear links as they would be difficult to relocate the angles on the original setup and keep it relatively stock looking - also sounds like some creaking in the front not sure those rear links would effect that can only make general comments without actually seeing the car when it comes to squeaks - that setup will cause a lot of forces on the chassis and maybe creating some body movement from side to side - creaking and squeaking are old muscle car sounds... lol mm has many options to stiffen up the chassis but yes the rubber bushing design is best I believe for comfort not too mention the age of the car will have some disadvantages...best of luck it's the fun we put ourselves thru...

[RedSN]

http://www.bremarauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/ride_roll_anim1.gif

The up-down motion isn't too bad, but look at the twisting that occurs when cornering. Now imagine that movement without any (almost no) flex in the joints.