Residential electrical questions

[cf105arrow]

Any electricians out there? I’m working in my basement right now and I have a couple of questions. I’m redoing two exterior walls because they are only 1.5 inches thick and I want to put thicker 2x4 walls in. One problem is that the main panel is right into the corner making it difficult to make the walls thicker. So I need the panel moved.
After looking at panel a couple of questions arose.
1. How many breakers does code allow me to put on a 100 amp panel. Searches online render American codes. I have 32 slots for d-lock panel.
2. What size breaker can you use with 8 awg wire. This wire is feeding a sub panel that powers ac and other small items. The current breaker however is only 15 amp. How the hell it hasn’t popped by now I don’t know. Need to get this swapped before a/c season is back.
3. I have two breakers ( I assume 220 because they are twice the width of a regular breaker) but they are labeled as split and power regular 115 volt outlets and lights. Is this setup a standard practice?

I’m in the process of relocating wires because some run below the joists where there was once a drop ceiling. The wires will now run through the joists as I will be putting in drywall right up to the joists. Since I’m in the process of moving them I’d like to know if I have to swap these double wide breakers for single slot breakers and rewire. A pain in the ass job because these wires eventually disappear up and into the wall so I’d rather not if this practice is acceptable.

At the end of the day I want what is safe and up to code.

Also was thinking of upgrading to 200 amp service so if there a company you guys know that is qualified and reliable and near Caledon East , let me know. Hydro one has already verified that their side of the
Meter is capable of 200.
Cheers,
Matthew

[Stephen06GT]

PM sent.

[Intmdtr]

we upgraded to 200 amp when we moved into our place a couple of years back, cost was about 2300 everything included. Our panel has the narrow breakers (siemens) which essentially doubled the space available in our panel.

as for the double breakers (locked together), I have the same in my panel and for my house they control the outlets in the kitchen, each upper and lower socket is on a separate circuit (can't recall if they are 15's or 20's)...meaning I could plug a blender and a toaster into the same plug (upper and lower) and neither would blow the breaker.

[cf105arrow]

To clarify; the double breaker that I was referring to takes up two slots but has 1 switch. Nothing is locked together. The more I think about it the more I think that this is not wired properly. The breaker has 1 white wire that is connected to the back of the panel. It has a red and black wire that connect seperately into the breaker. Basically I’m thinking that on 1 side of the breaker you have 2 roads for traffic and on the other you have 1 road for the same capacity. I don’t know if the breaker can recognize if the one side is overloaded or not. I’m pretty sure that these breakers are designed for 220 and not for the way they are set up now. But what do I know. Thoughts?

[cf105arrow]

My iPhone takes high res photos that are too large for the site . Gotta figure out how to dum it down.

[cf105arrow]

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[cf105arrow]

The above photo shows 3 large breakers at the top on the left. The top is the breaker for the ac. 2nd and 3rd feed some lights and outlets in the kitchen area.
I’m thinking that I could swap the breakers (not ac breaker) for a regular breaker and change the wire to 14/2. I can add a junction box in the crawl space and tie the red and black wire from the existing 3 wire into the black on the new 2 wire.

[5.4MarkVIII]

Not an electrician but I think that’s how the old split breaker were. Just one switch.
The new ones can be two switches but are locked together
As said, it is that way so you can use two higher watt appliances without blowing the breaker. But it trips both so if one trips the plug is totally dead for safety reasons.

As for the ac. The breaker will most likely be sized for the unit. Manual for the ac should give you breaker and wire size required.

My guess is, if it hasn’t blown by now your fine. Unless you planning on up grading. In the near future.

As the saying goes. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

Shouldn’t need to replace wire as long as it isnt aluminum. Or paper wrap. (Paper wrap is suppose to be fine but I’ve always upgraded whenever I’m into something and come across it.

[True Blue]

Those 3 double 15amp breakers are most likely controlling 3 counter top plugs like others have mentioned. If you would like to verify, remove one of the outlets and see if a 14/3 wire both red and black wires are attached to the outlet. I have the same setup in my panel.

If you are running out of space in your panel and seeing you already have a 32 slot panel. I would suggest adding a few tandem breakers to make a little extra room if needed and call it done. When I bought my house the original 100amp panel was all tandem breakers because it only had 16 slots. I was going to upgrade to a 200amp panel, but went with a 100amp 32 slot panel instead it's more than enough for my needs.

[RedSN]

How far are you moving the panel? You may not be able to move it. In which case you are maybe better off getting a new 200A service and a new panel.

We got a 200A service when we did the garage and put a 100A sub-panel in the garage.

And those are definitely your kitchen split plugs as mentioned.

[cf105arrow]

I do have some paper wrap wiring and I am replacing it where I can. For the most part it is in good condition considering it is 50 years old.
One of the mentioned breakers is protecting to kitchen counter plugs and the other the same as well as a couple of other outlets and a light. A couple of the outlets for the counter reveal that the red wire is cut and capped and therefore isn’t doing anything.
My dad is an hvac guy and says the breaker for ac should be 30 amp. The breaker at the sub-panel is 30 but the main panel is supplying the sub-panel with a 15. The wiresuppluing thesub-panel is 8awg so it can handle the power. Still surprised the 15 hasn’t popped. Could be that it had failed or that the ac start up draw happens too quickly and for too short a time for the breaker to react.
Thanks for the help so far guys. It’s been helpful.

[cf105arrow]

How far are you moving the panel? You may not be able to move it. In which case you are maybe better off getting a new 200A service and a new panel.

We got a 200A service when we did the garage and put a 100A sub-panel in the garage.

And those are definitely your kitchen split plugs as mentioned.

The panel has enough cable behind it to be shifted almost 12” to the direction I need.
I would like to upgrade but I’m running out of time to get a company in. I had a local company come in and the were to give me a quote but called and said they had P.O. to fill and couldn’t do it at this time. Might just have to move it for now and upgrade later if need be.

[5.4MarkVIII]

I run two fish tanks a pond pump, central air, electric dryer. 220 air compressor and a 220 welder and my 100 amp has never given me issues. Though I bet I’m running a fine line.

[Screw]

Split receptacles for kitchen , call in a sparky to oversee what you want to do imo