What would you do next?

[KRS]

I have a 2011 GT500, factory PP car with stripe delete, the car is rated at 550hp stock. I'm looking for some opinions on what I should do next for this years mods. What would you do?

Here's what's currently done to the car:
- Pulley and tune by Sean Hyland - apparently 100hp
- Ford Racing resonator delete on air intake tube
- MGW shifter
- Roush upper and lower rear control arms
- Baer 2 piece brake rotors with 14" rear rotors
- VMP twin fan heat exchanger
- 2013/14 GT500 intercooler pump (higher capacity)
- 2013/14 GT500 open grills
- 2013/14 GT500 front splitter extension
- Ford Racing boss side pipe kit - psychological hp!

Option 1:
- Spicer 1-piece aluminum driveshaft
- Ford Racing rear seat delete
(Total cost approx $2500.00)

Option 2:
(Estimated 650-675 wheel hp)
- Ford Racing 2.3 TVS Supercharger
- Ford Racing 65mm throttle body
- Ford Racing 56lb injectors
- JLT 123mm air intake
- One range colder plugs
- VMP tune
(Total approx cost $6000)

[TheMustangShow]

Unless you're going to seriously Track the car the Rear Seat Delete is a waste of Time and $$.


Go with Option 2

I have Option 2 on mine. Justin (Owner) @VMP is great to do business with and stands behind his products.
Make sure you get the latest VMP TVS with the ported elbow.

I would suggest the OEM Ford 2013-14 GT500 Injectors, they are 57 Pounds, cheaper than the Ford Racing and are Plug and Play with your Rails.

[SVOMACH1]

Duh! Option 2 Mr. Ken!!

[Stephen06GT]

I would get it on a Dyno to see exactly what you have to start with, and see how much more you could get out of it with a tune.

[SVOMACH1]

Going to change my answer. Go with option 3! Both!

[03svt]

I would skip the pulley tune and go right for a vmp blower, my pulley tuned 12gt500 was fun for a few days but I got used to the power.. I planned to upgrade the blower but ended up selling it.

I had a 2.6 upper, corsa axle backs, JLT res delete, triple pass heat exchanger some suspension and brake mods..

Made 525/540 if I remember correctly.

[KRS]

The car currently has a pulley and tune, tuned for 91 octane. The next step to increase power is a different supercharger, I wouldn't be after maximum HP though. Probably a maximum of 675 wheel, anymore would probably require a fuel pump booster and I don't want that. I also don't want to push it with a stock bottom end.

I'd go with the Ford Racing Trinity (OEM 2013/14) 2.3 TVS over the VMP. The VMP has better flow numbers but it won't do anything for me because I won't be pushing the motor to the edge. The Ford Racing injectors I was looking at are the stock 13/14 injectors.

The car is currently fast, and traction is usually an issue. I just haven't been able to convince myself to pull the trigger on a new Supercharger. The stock 2-piece driveshafts suck, they're just shy of 40 lbs and Ford limited the top speed on the cars due to driveshaft harmonics (not that I plan on going over 155 mph). If I do the rear seat delete, I'd pretty much just be doing it because I think it looks cool. I need to get off the fence!

[WidowrRacing]

All depends what you want out of the car.....if it's more jam #2 4sho.

[Speedtospare]

Do you need more power?

[Scott]

Modding is never done, go with option 2 then option 1. For option 2 I would go with a Justin VMP solution, his reputation is stellar.

The Ford Racing Boss 302 X-Brace Rear Seat Delete kit is pretty cool, but pricey.

http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae40/Scott_GT_CS/Interior/IMG_8671%20Medium_zpswxuarogg.jpg (http://s955.photobucket.com/user/Scott_GT_CS/media/Interior/IMG_8671%20Medium_zpswxuarogg.jpg.html)

[ZR]

Do what you figure will make you the happiest each n every time you drive it.

[KRS]

I really don't need more HP, but I'd like more HP, as you all know HP is somewhat addictive (isn't that right Gary).

I'm kinda leaning towards the driveshaft and seat delete for this year. I'll probably end up doing both options but not both this year.

[ZR]

None of us need more H/P but there is no denying how much freakin fun it is.

[dbovine]

Both are cool options, The seat delete and drive shaft option, you will see the seat delete every time you drive and if you think it looks cool, then its always nice to see. Everyone wants HP, but will you notice it giving all the traction issues you have with the power that is there now. Is there anything out there that can help you plant more of that power and is that an option you have considered ( I believe we are up to option 4 now ). I might consider finding a way to help plant the power before adding to it but I also have not researched your car very much so I could be out to lunch

[KRS]

I did the Roush UCA (anti-hop) and it works great. I did the LCA's too but I don't know if they helped much, but they didn't hurt. I went with the Roush parts because they have high durometer rubber bushings versus urethane or rod ends, somewhat of a compromise between the optimum for traction and additional NVH.

Next step for traction is tires, sticky and wider. I've been kinda looking for a set of rear wheels to have widened (I really like the 11/12 SVT PP wheels that came on the car).

[TheMustangShow]

I did the Roush UCA (anti-hop) and it works great. I did the LCA's too but I don't know if they helped much, but they didn't hurt. I went with the Roush parts because they have high durometer rubber bushings versus urethane or rod ends, somewhat of a compromise between the optimum for traction and additional NVH.

Next step for traction is tires, sticky and wider. I've been kinda looking for a set of rear wheels to have widened (I really like the 11/12 SVT PP wheels that came on the car).

There is zero increased NVH from the Maximum Motorsports LCAs with Rod Ends, I run them with the Roush Upper that you have.

Ran the Stock Upper, Steeda, BMR and the Roush UCA is the best, it is very well engineered and tested piece.
The only one better is this, the MultiMatic Made UCA from the Boss302S race car, but it's a Unicorn and is $1000.

http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s634/VTBoss302/Boss302RUpper4_zpse1afb090.jpg

http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/s634/VTBoss302/Boss302RUpper2_zps88d02f15.jpg

[KRS]

What's the large bushing in that arm, molded urethane or solid with a spherical bearing?

[TheMustangShow]

What's the large bushing in that arm, molded urethane or solid with a spherical bearing?

Spherical Bearing.

[SVOMACH1]

Apparently the rear seat delete kit is discontinued and the suppliers that still have inventory have jacked up the prices to around $1600 USD. Glad I bought mine when I did!

[KRS]

I spoke to Ford Performance and their supplier closed their doors, they are trying to source a new supplier.

[tulowd]

You are missing the most obvious mod that most people also don't do.

Tires are the only contact point with mother earth, and any car with over 350 hp needs sticky rubber in order to maximize traction, grip, response and agility.

Unless you are running Cup2 Michelins, you are leaving a pile of performance on the table without sticky tires like a NT01, or similar disposable sticky DOT track tire. Torsen diff follows closely behind.

I went from some "performance tires" to Nitto NT555s to Toyo R1R's to big Nitto NT01s.
Car felt like it gained 100rwhp; ask the Gallardo, F430 and supercharged M3 that I handed it to in one day 2 summers ago shortly after Nittoing.

This is with an old Fox convertible, naturally aspirated with (only) 444 rwhp/380 tq; your car is on another level already, only you can't run with Timberlines or wooden shoes strapped on, lol

Maximum Grip/Friction is everything, the rest is a waste of time and money until you are pushing the limits of the performance envelope your car is currently capable of.
Ask JT - The Mustang Show.....he knows

[KRS]

I agree, tires are always very important, see the second paragraph on post #15. Tires are on my list but not for this year, unless I come across a good deal on a set of rear 11/12 SVTPP wheels to have widened.